Dear Shaded Viewers,
At first when I walked into the Palais du Tokyo, I thought that there were childlike paintings on the walls. At closer view, I understood that these were garments, pants, and shirts which created a bit of walking art. In this unique fusion of fashion and artistry, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE collaborates with renowned artist and designer Ronan Bouroullec, seamlessly integrating his distinctive drawings into the fabric of the collection. Let’s take a closer look at the individual pieces that make up this captivating collaboration:
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE AUTUMN WINTER 2024/25 collection, titled “Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity,” delves into the translation of sources of inspiration into garment production by examining the relationship between a concept and its realization. The concept here is that the interpretation of creative elements extends beyond their representation through patterns and designs. Each piece functions as an ingredient to be incorporated into the design and manufacturing process, breathing life into a highly cohesive creative journey.
Collaboration with Ronan Bouroullec:
This creative collaboration between HOMMÉ PLISSE ISSEY MIYAKE and the artist and designer Ronan Bouroullec is a project where the design team immersed themselves in working with his drawings. They didn’t view them solely as a portfolio of artworks to be appreciated as art but rather as an extensive array of materials to dive into and play with freely. Ronan Bouroullec’s precise understanding of the brand’s design approach and creative process, coupled with numerous meaningful exchanges with the artist, served as a crucial wellspring of inspiration for this collection.
“Working with the design team throughout our creative session was an extraordinary experience. I discovered much about the similarities and contrasts between my work and their approach to clothing design. It’s the synergy, as well as the distance that separates us, that made this project both inspiring and rewarding.”
- Ronan Bouroullec
About Ronan Bouroullec:
Born in 1971 in Quimper, Brittany, Ronan Bouroullec is a French designer with a design practice established for over two decades. Notably, he collaborated with his brother on the interior design of the A-POC store (a brand of ISSEY MIYAKE named after its eponymous design and manufacturing system) in Paris in 2000. He has partnered with prominent figures in international design to create furniture, lighting, urban spaces, and architectural installations recognized and collected by museums and design institutes globally.
Beyond his design practice, drawing is an integral part of his daily routine, influencing his approach to design. His drawings are sought after by gallery owners and art collectors, having been showcased and collected by museums and art foundations worldwide.
RB_DRAWING PLEATS & RB_DRAWING PLEAT WB:
The RB_DRAWING PLEATS & RB_DRAWING PLEAT WB series showcases “Drawing,” a collection of works representing Ronan Bouroullec’s artistic endeavors, seamlessly incorporated into the iconic pleated fabric of the brand. The design explores the relationship between a drawing and a garment. The garment, like a canvas, serves as a backdrop to showcase the white portions of the original artwork. The shading of the pleats enhances the vibrant and intense colors, capturing the delicate brushstroke of the original painting.
RB_ALL OVER PLEATS:
RB_ALL OVER PLEATS integrates another set of works from Ronan Bouroullec, “ALL OVER,” into the characteristic pleated fabric of HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE. The original drawing, composed of countless lines, creates a poetic pattern so lively that one could dive into it rather than merely observing from a distance. To seamlessly incorporate the designs into the garment, the shoulders, sleeves, and hems have been elongated to allow graceful draping on the body.
OVERFLOW:
OVERFLOW takes inspiration from the RB_ALL OVER PLEATS series, presenting the shapes in a palette of solid colors. Similar to the printed series, this voluminous garment can be wrapped around the body or worn open for a more dynamic movement.
RB_DRAWING COAT:
The RB_DRAWING COAT series highlights Ronan Bouroullec’s signature paintings on lightweight polyester fabric, using a silk-screen printing technique with a separate plate for each color. The final pieces maintain the depth of color and subtlety of the artwork. The minimalist structure of the coat and poncho accentuates the power of the original artwork.
RB_STYLO-BILLE CUSHION COAT:
Coats in the RB_STYLO-BILLE CUSHION COAT series feature a large patch pocket where the garment can be folded to transform into a cushion. The Gobelin stitch reproduces “Stylo-Bille,” a specific work by Ronan Bouroullec created with a ballpoint pen. When worn as a coat, the colors are inverted, offering a different color palette.
RB_EMBROIDERY SHIRT:
The three shirts in the RB_EMBROIDERY SHIRT series are crafted from naturally textured fabric, embroidered with the “Stylo-Bille” artwork. Each style celebrates the intense and detailed colors and organic shapes of the original work. The embroidery includes threads that slightly extend beyond the outlines of the original drawings, emphasizing their dynamism.
RB_DRAWING SCARF:
RB_DRAWING SCARF draws inspiration from earlier elements of the “Drawing” series. The scarves are knitted with multicolored threads, featuring openings at certain points to wrap around and be worn in various ways, allowing the creation of a wearable artwork.
Later,
Diane