Posed but not political at GmbH PFW F/W 23/24 by Leticia Dare

Dear Shaded Viewers,


In a fashion world where everything seems to be political, GmbH’s Fall/Winter 23/24 collection offered a refreshing departure from the norm. Instead of the personal narratives, politics, and meanings that often accompany fashion collections, the Berlin-based brand chose to explore the freedom of pure aesthetics. The designers, Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik, wanted to create a sense of fashion where the meaning is left to the cut, the fabrics, the finishings, the colors, and the body.

The collection, which was presented with visceral live music by LABOUR and gesturing City Ballet Corps dancers, was a reaction to the deafening noise that often permeates the fashion industry. Instead of relying on personal trauma or identity politics, the designers chose to focus on the truest elements of GmbH, embracing the banalities and beauty of a knotted bow, the buttoning of a blazer, or a clavicle-revealing dress. The result was a stunning display of codes and tropes of fashion, stripped back and gutted to its form.

Dubbed “Untitled,” the collection featured primarily black colors with accents of pink, white, and emerald green. Oversized bows, stoles, and streamers added a couture element to the pieces, while dresses in jersey, sheer mesh, or velvet featured utilitarian zippers or fake fur detailing. GmbH also introduced their first-ever handbag, which echoed the crossing straps of their tailoring and was inspired by the hammer and pick, a universal symbol of mining.

The inclusion of references to vogueing and drag cultures added an extra layer of depth and meaning to the presentation, highlighting the importance of inclusivity and representation in the fashion industry. The City Ballet Corps dancers used gestures to convey elegance through different lenses, referencing the hauteur of ’50s couture as well as the reclamation of couture by marginal communities in the ballroom (vogueing) and drag cultures.

The collection included tailored coats and off-the-shoulder tops adorned with bows of all sizes, along with boxy satin wool suits with contrasting satin stoles that dragged regally on the floor. Over-the-knee boots in emerald green faux croc and black patent had chrome buckles with the brand’s new Kufic monogram, while ankle boots featured a middle zipper going all the way to the front of the sole. The brand’s first women’s collection also included sharp and angular platform pumps and ankle boots. A new ASICS trainer collaboration was revealed in combinations of green and gold or black and white, while Palladium silver earrings were made from the brand’s new monogram. Eyewear in silver and mirrored lenses were aerodynamic and utilitarian.

Overall, GmbH’s Fall/Winter 23/24 collection was a bold statement on the meaning of fashion. By exploring the freedom of pure aesthetics and incorporating references to vogueing and drag cultures, the designers challenged the notion that everything in fashion must be political. The result was a stunning display of codes and tropes of fashion, stripped back and gutted to its form, where the wearing of garments, the carrying of a handbag, the walk, and the posture allowed the fashion and the body to speak for itself.




Leticia Dare




Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.