Leandro Cano Couture FW’22 – A Harmony of Artisanal Andalusian Techniques as Wearable Art | Words by Nafiseh Soolari

Dear Shaded Viewers,

A couture show is one thing but taking the time to appreciate and feature the artisans that are a part of your creative journey in a form of a short film is an endeavor that Leandro Cano takes seriously and he delivers this with passion. 

Haute couture is always about an emotional response, writes Tim Blanks in his piece featured on The Business of Fashion (BOF). This couldn’t ring more true during this week, and it was distinctly visible at the Cano show where the beat of the drums and a model wearing Cano on stilts in red invites you to the Dance of the Excluded! A fictional medieval society where the music beckons you and where the designer from Jaén puts the spotlight on individuality, creating  11 different personalities. When the models entered the runway of the Spanish Embassy halls that individuality was noted through symbolism created via textiles. The contrasts were stark and the emotional responses visible as the audience sought to understand while also reveling in the imaginative creations. 

Each piece has a name such as: Jaleo Jaleo, Tiempo (the dress Lady Gaga wore in 2013), Cautivo, Mula Torda and Pan Y Vino. In true medieval fashion, imagine chains, and more chains, religious references and animals. It is truly special to learning about the tension techniques, traditional leather working methods, baking the ceramics and looms using your hands and feet which are just a few of the details I share here. 

It is also notable to mention that the woven Valencia fabric used in the look titled Crespón Dorado a shimmery gold maxi dress was the first of its kind using the Tisú fabric. 

In the movie viewing the following morning, you see the artisans, their names, their spaces they are working in and the passion with which they speak of in their own work and in working with Cano for his creations. The labor of the artisans are listed in hours and the weight of each look is measured. Fabrics made on hand looms, Andalusian ceramic pieces, gold hand sewn embroideries, and embossed leather techniques are all featured in the film piece. The show is truly has such special meaning when you understand the depth and magic of Spanish craftsmanship. 

Cano manages to beautifully sheds light on an analysis of the parallels of our current times to medieval times, magnifying individuality as the new mentality. Thank you for bringing attention to your artisans, to your labour of love.

Later,

Nafiseh

Nafiseh Soolari

Nafiseh Soolari is a creative consultant, writer and photographer— "I love translating the beauty I see in all the moments around me, people, places, things; and I aspire to share my vision: to create a single moment for me and you to connect and realize what this amazing world has to offer..."

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