Hyun Mi Nielsen photos by Louise Damgaard


Dear Shaded Viewers,

My new discovery is the luxury ready to wear collection called Hyun Mi Nielsen designed by Christine Hyun Mi Nielsen. Although she was born in Korea she was brought up in Denmark by the family that adopted her. This might only be her second collection but she spent the last ten years honing her skills at  brands Max Mara, Burberry, Alexander McQueen and finally Balenciaga under Alexander Wang before launching her own brand.

Her process is that she researches fabrics, tries out different techniques and essentially builds the collection around stories through different garments. One idea of a favourite of mine was a white coat with black patent leather spikes that was inspired by a vintage image of ermine tails. She likes ruffles but uses them in unexpected ways such as ruffled short and long handbags and a funny teddy bear like coat made of white and black rows and rows and rows of tulle and it is as light as I would imagine wearing a cloud might be. She likes to think that her clients might pair the chubby jacket with a pair of jeans.

One black and white patent coat made me think of Catherine Deneuve in Belle du Jour, a bit fetish but lady like and classic. A favourite of Nielsen’s is a black trouser suit that also comes in a wave of black and white and has erotic zips over the breasts which can be unzipped or kept closed depending on ones mood.

A nice twist for a trench coat comes in an op art swiss cheese cut out silk coat that can be worn light weight and open or over a black silk lining. I think it is perfect when you want to wear a coat in the spring without a desire to be kept warm. If you want that, slip it over the lining.

In addition is a series of embroidered silk organza/chiffon dresses with sculpted volumes. Bows are used in the same way that she uses  ruffles, they can be understated or extravagant.

Definitely a designer to watch.

Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.