Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
Those who came looking for sugary mesh and the gauzy sport kits that define by now Astrid Andersen's quest for a new representation of masculinity, one that's both enhanced and tenderised, were not exactly left longing. There were still golden sparkles of Sophie Hallette's lace, peaking through the trademark polyamides and oily, quilted nylons. As a whole though, this was a markedly less showy, more thought through, deliberately wearable collection. Less brassy, somewhat wiser too. What was before pure hard-line sportswear leaned this season towards traditional workwear silhouettes, as dungarees and denims were paired with textured, grungier long-sleeved knits. It were the textiles indeed, most of all, that really gave AW16 a boost. Echoes of a lusher side of heritage, such as a pleated velour matching set or cable knit crop top, which was especially strong when in aqua and worn over joggers of the same shade, reached their peak with Astrid’s unexpected collaboration with Linton Tweeds. From a century-old UK mill, the classy checks find a new home on tracksuit bottoms, bombers, hoodies and mittens – and who but Astrid Andersen could ever have guessed how cool and comfortable they would look at that.