Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,
Pitti Uomo is over for another season and Florence is recovering from the invasion of beautiful men. The streets are empty, the wind is cold, and the coffee doesn't taste as sweet. Nevertheless, I've put together highlights from the fair; a collection of designers that presented standout some wares.
The first collection from the new pairing of designers Matteo Gioli (of superDuper Hats fame) and Stefano Ughetti (of Camo) was presented as part of Pitti Italics. A spotlight beamed down on two cyclists who marked the beginning and end of the show with the pumping of their legs. The collection was inspired not so much by cycling itself, but by these cyclists; their power, determination and integrity. Garments were simple, well-made and softly tailored with charming but functional details.
Belgian designer Mats Rombaut has gathered experience at Lanvin and Damir Doma before starting his own footwear line two years ago. Selected as part of The Latast Fashion Buzz (an initiative of Pitti Uomo with Italian Vogue and GQ to promote new talent), his collection was inspired by how the future was seen in the 70s. Futuristic geometry and a strong and clean palette frame the multi-material footwear, which manages to use no animal products nor toxic materials; a rarity in the footwear world.
Document only began last year, but the designer's professional history of 12 years shows in this collection. Jongsoo Lee is based in Korea, though uses only textiles from Japan and Italy. His garments are excellently constructed, and in fact Lee insisted on showing me the details of his coats, which were permanently hung inside-out to show both his clever pattern-cutting and attention to every detail, even if they'll only be known to the wearer.