A Shaded View On fashion by Diane Pernet

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

A handful of seasons have passed since their Fashion East days, and Marques’ Almeida have flowered with enviable speed. Cradled, indeed, by the newfound appreciation of denim they nonetheless are largely responsible for, and perhaps also due to a timely collaboration with TOPSHOP allowing the label to dress that carefree youth they seem to have in mind, Marques’ Almeida has already reached the status of a school of thought: enough so that if you dig out those loose pair of jeans in your closet since 1997 and rip them up artfully a bit, your fashion friends may say “That’s very Marques’ Almeida of you”. Showing at the TOPSHOP venue in Tate Britain, the designer duo’s winter collection was a skilfully balanced clash between their own disobedient sensibilities and the heady giddiness of expansion. Brocades, most of all, were the seasonal pièce de résistance, linked to their signature indigo looks with charmingly tousled silhouettes and hairstyles, as well as similar treatments: like their denim, raw edges let the golden wefts float loose, in a curiously asymmetrical fil coupé effect. Tinfoil metallics also featured plenty, especially in the footwear and rumpled bags paired with warmly coloured monochrome ensembles. She might have treated herself to some sparkles and a few Swarovski along the way, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida could be saying, but this girl hasn’t lost her defiance: and wears it all together incredibly well.

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

It was raining cats and dogs on Sunday night, as we made our way towards the Pam Hogg show, and London glistened as this city does in the stormy weather, radiant and beaming as if dressed in latex. Ladies and gentlemen in platform heels trod carefully in-between the puddles all around Freemasons’ Hall, with their arms flailing slightly for balance: anticipating, by chance, the mood of a collection they were yet to see, that led us into the perilous depths of a sinfully Dantesque selva oscura. “Come out of the garden baby” sings David Bowie in the background, and the first one who does is Lily - daughter of Melanie Blatt from the girl group All Saints, here in her catwalk début - as Little Red Riding Hood in swishy ruby silk. Blossoms, thorns and twigs and what was also possibly once a crow follow throughout the show, suitably titled Diamond Dogs and Demons, as do flared capes in glossy black or shades of tinfoil, all personally hand cut and sewn by Pam herself. Her signature sheer catsuits were joined by some re-imagined equestrian looks in studded suede or ample tulle underskirts. A promising disciple, NEWGEN recipient Molly Goddard admired them from the front row, few seats away from Stephen Jones and Bishi, with Nick Cave and Noel Fielding just across on the opposite side.

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

Childhood memories in a box: a tiny plastic hourglass filled with pink sand, missing tassels redrawn by hand and small toys from Kinder Surprise replacing the original, long vanished wooden pawns. Nowadays the laboriously organized pleasure of only truly hardcore fans (I hear you, Steven), board games were not so long ago a reliable presence in every household’s pantry. What might come across to today’s youth as almost inexplicably boring was then a matter of endurance and resilience, of logic and chance. A sentimental look back, however, was nothing like what Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos had in mind when drafting their winter 2015 collection, which finds its feet in the palette and labyrinthine motives of Snakes and Ladders, Captain’s Mistress and Ludo, and features chromed cabochon buttons that could be lucky keepsakes from a memorable Pinball game – but ends up reaching further, in a much more timely fashion: with sensible outerwear in wool or brushed jacquard, the duo’s signature trim silhouettes, precious embroideries and appliques and classy milky hues, all steadied on sturdy orange heels by faithful collaborator Nicholas Kirkwood.