The party poopers will later fuss over the practicalities of everyday travel, but it does not concern us, and if it did, the romance of the landscape surely can make up for the hassle, if you really want to call it so, of going to school by water. Personally, I was thrilled. On its 10th anniversary, the Fashion Design course at IUAV University leaves its adopted home of Treviso to settle back within the heart of Venice, perched right above the sea by the San Basilio pier. We made our way there on July the 3rd, after 24 hours’ worth of talks, performances and debates – animated, especially at first, as only Italian debates know how – organised by course director Maria Luisa Frisa and Federico Sarica, editor in chief at Rivista Studio. Grouped under the title L'Italia è di moda after a 1963 documentary on the Bel Paese, a series of speakers – among which the likes of designer Fausto Puglisi, journalist Angelo Flaccavento, and fashion historian Clara Tosi Pamphili – aimed to shed light on the state of the contemporary fashion system, in Italy as well as abroad, and which steps to take in order to guarantee the field a future as rosy as that sunset. A particular panel featuring Gianluca Cantaro at l’Officiel, Andrea Batilla and Sabrina Ciofi at Pizza, and Simone Sbarbati at Frizzifrizzi, focused on the publishing industry, musing on how to go about the arduous task of keeping a niche readership from becoming, as the metaphor went, a grave. Still, as we headed to the show that very night, lulled by the salty froth as dusk settled over what will most likely be the hottest day I’ll experience this year, admiring just how ardently beautiful Venice always is, I couldn’t help but thinking, oh, but we’ll be alright. If this is what the students will look at, day in and day out, a refill of optimism is bound to follow, and what better place to start?
Already, the collections we saw showed some fearless use of leather, ribbons, pinstripe and velvet and plumes, plus the ultimate uplifting influence of workwear that we’re finding worldwide this season – with freshly updated dungarees and overalls and snug, warm knits with straps and slits, in earthy, coppery and pearly hues. My favourites from the MA course were the projects of Francesca Piacentini, Ester Rigato and Filippo Soffiati, pictured in the lookbook above via Commesso Fotografo. Francesca and Filippo were both inspired by painters, Degas and Bacon respectively, whereas Ester looked at the discreet, subtle links between the male and female silhouette. From the BA, I liked the best Not That Funny Games by Alberto Panozzo (ah, Haneke!), Naif by Milena Gabrijelčič and Flawless Caption by Simone Rossi, all also above, and below after the jump you’ll find some sharp close-up shots by Giacomo Cosua of Positive Magazine.
I met Bea even before she went to Central Saint Martins to study jewellery and it has been a great pleasure to follow her career. For TOILETPAPER, Bea Bongiascahas collaborated with their creators: Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari for the new capsule collection, Endless?
Curated is the label by Antwerp-based Thai designer, EK Thongprasert that Diane and I saw at the Bangkok Showroom in Paris.
The SS16 collection is called ‘Peaceful Conqueror’ and uses 2D and 3D applique in wearable collage motifs, to create an idea of a utopian world, free from conflict and war. The palette is pretty peaceful too.
These 3-D printed bags are made of leather and a fine polyamide plastic powder for printing...nylon. The printing process is called Selective Laser Sintering. The bags are designed in Paris and are water proof.