Munich-born Marie-Sophie Beinke, currently a postgraduate student at Antwerp's renowned Royal Fine Arts Academy, was announced as the winner of the 2014 Future Fashion Designer Scholarship (10 000 euros).
Have a look at her interview with Bruno Pieters on honest by.
Normcore might well be history by now, but if there's something we've learnt from this late '13-early '14 Brooklynite whim is that, Teva sandals? They're hot. And if LFW attendees have yet to dare past the odd pair of New Balance sneakers, we've surely seen, to our inward delight, a resurgence of the comfortable shoe, with less ladies switching their footwear on their way to the tube and many such sandals walking the catwalks indeed. Of course, when a Christopher Raeburn model wears them, a very different meaning is swiftly implied - they're no trend nor statement there, simply the most practical choice that's suddenly elegant too, to match the morals, beliefs and ideals that his clothes for five years now have come to set firmly in place. ASCENT, Raeburn's SS15 collection, has joined its menswear counterpart in the vast Arizona desert, where fields of decommissioned aircraft pepper the landscape like modern ruins. Focused on memories of flight, potential and lightness, his work evokes some dormant power, sleepy strength, layered and oversized. Quilted outerwear is printed with the swirling motives of meteorological maps, while distressed cotton in dusty whites pays homage to the charms of erosion, of the romantically outmoded. And Raeburn has a way to make sheer organza, a sensual seasonal must, appear almost inexplicably practical, with its iridescent patches of recycled yarn. Original MIG fighter pilot suits have morphed into stylish feminine separates, lined in bravery. The signature parachute pieces make their striking appearance in fresh blooming pink - an unexpected, vibrant tone that glides to the scenery like soft bubblegum clouds as the desert tortoise, Raeburn's mascot for spring, slowly but surely finds its way through the dunes.
Channelling that intoxicating blend of innocence and danger, Hind Matar concocted a collection around Coney Island and the mood of its heyday for her label MATAR. On a quest for the lost youth of the 1950s, this season's thrill-seekers find themselves revelling in both the joy and the jitters of a faded funfair. The loops and wooden scaffolding of the roller coasters; the candy stands; the frilly dresses; and the puffy skirts of the young girls running around – all have been commemorated in the clothes themselves. Take the spinning ride, where people are plunged upside down and scream wildly with excitement. To capture the momentum of that ride, suspenders and spaghetti straps have been twisted and draped on the garment before being transformed into cascades of whimsical ruffles.
In other parts of the collection, there is an eager interplay between kids getting their first taste of grown-up fun, wearing their parent's oversized clothes that hang loose off the body, and adults trying to reclaim their youth by adorning themselves with youthful elements such as braces and naive bows. Childlike longing, the carelessness of youth and a desire to never grow up are just a few of the seemingly discordant emotions that are mirrored in the rich textures of the fabric selection.
What is it about the forces of destruction and the compulsions of beauty that seem so intertwined? Elinor Avni, the ravishing designer behind accessories label NORITAMY, decided that this season she would salute some of the world's most explosive places. Taking a cue from the unfathomable power unleashed by volcanoes like Mount Etna, Orosi and Harra, she spent much of the summer studying the incredible textures created by tephra -- the rock fragments created from a volcanic eruption. But make no mistake, these sublime creations are not made from the rare rocks she foraged from around the world. That would hardly be a challenge for the likes of her....
After much investigation, incredibly, Avni developed a man-made technique to mimic nature in a way that might even fool the gods themselves. In her hands, an elusive icy white material emulates the tephra found at spectacular ice volcanes while jet black stone gets transformed into glorious halos of lava spew. It takes someone truly gifted to come full circle like this. Don't miss her gold, silver and gem ranges either at Somerset House today and tomorrow during London Fashion Week. Or pass by the Kabiri boutique for her current selling season. Whatever you do, put NORITAMY to memory.
There's something to be said about a thoughtful location - not just a majestic one, although all things considered majestic ones do often tend to do the trick - but one that was looked for, selected carefully, to mirror the feeling, message and mood of a particular season. With its low ribbed vaults and practiced, secular balance, Lincoln's Inn's undercroft chapel did just so, hosting today the palmer//harding show. A show whose theme, in fact, was time itself - in a setting that reminds me a bit of certain churches back home, or the one visited by Eugenia and Gorchakov, at the very beginning of Tarkovsky's Nostalghia. It's a subject, in fashion, of a curiously paradoxical nature: we wistfully long for timelessness, yet seem intent to march against it with seasonal rush at the earliest opportunity. For spring 2015 though, Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding have built a collection that celebrates change, embraces age, rejoices, in the passing of time. A seasoned metaphor but still the most apt, is that of the rosebud that blooms in the springtime: like petals, chiffon, crepe de chine and gauze unfold, weightlessly tremble, ruffle and peel, dipped in progressively vibrant floral hues. A devoré finishing echoes the state of 17th century stone, but it's the shirting, of course, that holds all of the focus. palmer//harding hasn't forgotten its own very special craft: sheer sleeves cut along the seam that meet once more at the cuff, asymmetric silky hems, backs as long as veils, as pure, and perfectly fitting the space.