Rankin for Jitrois FW 16/17

Dear Shaded Viewers,

A new film by RANKIN for Jitrois.

Photography: Rankin

Creative Direction: Vicky Lawton

Casting & Production: Nicholas Forbes Watson

Female model: Camilla Christensen at Le Management

Male model: Harry Goodwins at Select Models

Styling: Anna Hughes-Chamberlain

Hair: Jonathan Connelly

Make Up: Andrew Gallimore

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Thom Browne's life is a beach by Lily Templeton

"The show was full of optimism," said one of Thom Browne's seagulls after he had turned back into a human and indeed, despite its black sand and single palm tree, the island backdrop of Spring 2017's show had nothing to do with a post-apocalyptic vision. Even the character sitting at its base, white-faced and silent, seemed a statue in repose rather than a menacing omen. 
 

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Sean Suen, menswear's shadow boxer by Lily Templeton

When it comes to menswear today, the question is hardly the radical its of the cuts but rather the ability to play with materials in a bid to impart a mood, a lifestyle and a vision of the contemporary wardrobe. At Sean Suen, a new entry on the Paris menswear schedule, this was exactly the point.

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Dior Homme's Rock'n'Rollercoaster by Lily Templeton

Was this really Dior Homme? Save the best for last? Editors were hedging their bets after a walloping Dior Homme show where Kris Van Assche played a punk-rock riff that wouldn't feel out of place on Disney's Aerosmith Rock'n'rollercoaster, as the house is days to announce its new womenswear designer amid rampant rumors.
 

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Think pink at Sacai by Lily Templeton

It wasn't until the word horrorshow appeared across a t-shirt that you could pinpoint what had been truly spliced into Chitose Abe's Sacai menswear. For once, the injection wasn't so much in the clothes themselves - those were deceptively simple and inspired by 90s sportswear - as in the mood, where the dystopian novlang nadsat invented by Anthony Burgess for A Clockwork Orange, embodied a touch of rot in all that sugar sweetness. Think pink as in the elephants of delirium tremens. 
 

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Small town toughs at Junya Watanabe by Lily Templeton

Leave no surface unadorned was the overarching sentiment that Junya Watanabe imparted in his Spring 2017 menswear line which he showed in the graffitied underbelly of the Cité de la Mode et du Design on a cast of tattooed types that wore all their rock rage on their bodies and garments. Out of the backstage these pairs of tough boys stauntered, giving the stink eye to anyone who crossed their glance. Decked in head-to-tattoed-toe Watanabe, these were smooth criminals indeed. 

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Michal Lojewski UEG FINIS EUROPAE COLLECTION

Dear Shaded Viewers,

This has to be  one of the most relavant  collections of the season.  Michal Lojewski questions the  future of EUROPAE , meanwhile you might have to  customize your pieces as time goes by...

Before fashion Michal  was a celebrated graphic designer, his texts have meaning beyond your instagram feed.

UEG Showroom Paris

97 rue de Turenne (corner with rue de Poitou)

Till 28th 10h - 19h

Appointments SHOWROOM@UEG>PL

+48 605 579 019

Later,

Diane

 

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Catch a Wave with Julien David by Lily Templeton

Girls were more masculine, guys embraced a fluid approach and Julien David made the twain of his men and womens' lines meet, as he announced that he would forgo his October slot in favor of a January-June schedule more in keeping with fabric and retail cycles. "My menswear had reached a point where it was getting more and more conceptual, so I thought it was more interesting to show it side by side on a creative as well as commercial level" the French designer said backstage after the show. "We're at a moment in fashion where each person must do what is best for their brand."

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Y/Project does Y-fronts by Lily Templeton

There may have been renewed focus on Glenn Martens following his short-listing at the 2016 LVMH Prize but it was definitely business as usual at Y/Project as he presented a spring 17 collection that played on his usual tropes of gender neutrality and unconventional sensuality. Looks came hard and fast, just like the rain outside the riverboat.  
 

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JULIUS - KNIVES by TATSURO HORIKAWA – TEXT BY GERALDINE POSTEL

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Thursday night after patiently waiting for the last show of the day scheduled to start at 9pm, they stood there a great while as waiting in front of the entry of a concert. Tatsuro Horikawa presented its new collection jammed into a room full of heat, pumped up with binary sounds of electro in the Eiffel building of LA GENERALE.

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Voulez-vous coucher avec Yohji Yamamoto by Lily Templeton

"Voulez-vous coucher avec moi ce soir?" flashed on the back of a souvenir coat at Yohji Yamamoto, but sounded more like a plea than a rascally come-on. Confronting his cast of characters who wore their history on their faces and bodies with the languid, rather than overly macho, sentiment that came off the runway, you could make a case for being a fighter of love rather than a lover of the fight. 
 

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A fresh new page at Issey Miyake by Lily Templeton

Any creative will know that the blank page is a double-whammy of doom and delight. Multiply that by the resonance of Issey Miyake and you get a notion of what it must be like to be the incumbent designer. Yusuke Takahashi ran that gauntlet with aplomb and referenced India, in particular its spiritual heartland of Varanasi for a restorative retreat. 
 

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SANTA LUPITA VENTE PRIVEÉ PARIS 23 – 25 JUNE 2016

SANTA LUPITA VENTE PRIVEÉ PARIS, 23 – 25 JUNE PARIS

OPENING:
23 JUNE 2016, 17-21

SALE:
24 & 25 JUNE 2016, 12-20

152 BOULEVARD SAINT GERMAIN, 75006 PARIS

To schedule an appointments please contact:
MAIL@SANTALUPITA.COM or call +33 6 79 78 22 36.

FOR MORE INFO VISIT:

WEBSITE: WWW.SANTALUPITA.COM
FACEBOOK: SANTA LUPITA
INSTAGRAM: SANTALUPITAGRAM

And to see a pervious post about Santa Lupita click here:
http://ashadedviewonfashion.com/blog/introducing-santa-lupita-love-stitches-mexico

 

 

 

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The Mermaid Parade in Coney Island, June 18, 2016. Photos by Glenn Belverio

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Like every year, I welcomed the start of pagan summer with a kaleidoscopic menagerie of tricked-out mermaids, seaweed-smoking freaks, deep-sea seductresses and their spawn in Coney Island. The weather was picture-perfect and the creative participants really upped their game this year in the costume department. 

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BEAMS JAPAN POP-UP STORE IN PARIS

BEAMS JAPAN POP UP STORE in PARIS

curated contemporary lifestyle concept from Japan

 

from Tuesday 21 June - Saturday 2 July 2016

at Atelier Blancs Manteaux, 19 rue des Blancs Manteaux 75004 Paris

 

All right reserved by the photographer.

Images are exclusive to www.ashadedviewonfashion.com, clients and the copyright holders.

Prohibited to reproduce for any other website, blog, publication or printed matter.

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