Any creation can be turned over to a sexual interpretation. It is always available, though it usually says more about the eye that reaches for it than the work it lands on. There are exceptions, works where desire is not projected but designed, and Louis-Gabriel Nouchi has made them his trade since founding his brand in Paris in 2017. Each season he starts from a story, a novel or a film, and draws the body out of it, turning American Psycho or Alien into tailoring that wants. Spring-Summer 2027 took its cue from Twin Peaks, David Lynch’s 1990 fever dream. A few days after the show closed, Nouchi pushed the idea further still, announcing a collaboration with OnlyFans, where creators share intimacy with their subscribers on their own terms.
The Spring-Summer 2027 collection took that unease and tailored it. In the series the surface stays calm while the rot works underneath, and Nouchi followed the same seam, casting his silhouettes as the town’s archetypes, the detective, the waitress, the rebellious teenager, the femme fatale, each crossing the floor with a cold, deliberate assurance, as though they shared one secret. Suits came broken, never quite whole, jackets leading in pinstripe, waxed cotton and grain de poudre. Satin, ostrich feathers and sheer panels surfaced in flashes, faint memories of old lingerie, while pointelle, the openwork jersey once kept for womenswear, was turned into tank tops. The signature LGN slit ran through the layering, and the palette of black, ivory, sand and moss was deepened by the browns the House traces to Francis Bacon.
Desire stayed where Nouchi likes it, just out of sight, in a neckline, a fabric, a way of walking, never announced. The clearest sign of his confidence came low on the body, a plain brief worn over the hips with a heavy Harley-Davidson belt, treated not as exposed underwear but as a garment in its own right. Hair was gelled into quiffs and nineties pompadours. And the casting opened wide, to varied bodies and genders, with one plus-size model on a menswear runway that so seldom finds room for him. That it is still rare enough to move us is the sad part. That he was there at all was a real and simple joy, and thanks are due for it.
The capsule keeps things deliberately small, three pieces sold through the OnlyFans Store, a ribbed tank and brief in white and a black boxer short, each carrying the OnlyFans name. They sit on his favourite line, between what you hide and what you show, priced from seventy-five to a hundred and seventy-five euros. The campaign was shot in London by Tré Koch, in the cerebral, stripped-back manner of nineties fashion imagery. Nouchi has described the platform as a creative space rather than another social network, somewhere he can experiment and collaborate with artists without compressing the work into a few seconds of content. Coming from a designer who has spent years on the body, the sweat and the fantasy, the partnership reads less as provocation than as the next room in the same house.
The clothes never spelled it out, but the room understood. The models pressed forward at a brisk, driven pace, the air thickening around them, the whole show running a few degrees too warm. That heat is the point. Winner of the ANDAM Grand Prize in 2023, the award that first crowned Martin Margiela, Nouchi has become one of the most compelling voices of young Paris fashion, and the only one currently turning desire into a wardrobe you can subscribe to.
