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Over the last couple of years Duran Lantink has quickly gained acclaim for his clever and distinct sculptural designs, establishing himself as a designer to watch. This season in Paris he brings an unassumingly complex thread to his signature bold, inflated and exaggerated silhouettes. What could have easily slid into silly has been elevated to fun new heights.
This season we see Lantink’s signature bulbous forms molded in a way that extends the bone structure of already waifish models, accentuating their elegance into something almost alien – but, he stops before stumbling into full-camp. This carefully sculpted padding serves to create new frames for the body as he extends the upward tilt of hip-bones and knees, or strengthens the shoulder blades, or exaggerates the shape of the skull, and so on. These strong forms, alongside sleek, flowing chiffon interjected with hyperbolic military references and casual street-wear motifs, makes for a collection that is almost unconsciously sci-fi and peculiarly graceful. Super cinematic.
Lantink’s technique underscores a unique visual language that is retro-futuristic at its core, and fresh in its presentation. There is a strong dimension of playfulness, absurdity, and trompé l’œil that also establishes his brand as, surprisingly, quite dada. Combined, his references come together to make for a show that grasps the dichotomy of the cultural context he creates in. As if, in the inception of newness-seeking that permeates the contemporary creative drive, Lantink circles back at just the right moment to present a collection that gives us something really unusually beautiful and contemporarily chic. These looks are quite literally leaning towards the future, yet fatally grounded here on Earth and, -just like the rest of us- condemned to wearing Converse All-Stars!
Amidst scandal, Naomi closes his runway in a simple long black dress with a stark chrome collar and earring set. She also seems to have an extra cc or two of padding enhancing her natural beauty this season.. For continuity’s sake, if you will.
À toute,
Rianna Murray
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