The Ethereal Elegance of “Up, Up, and Away” by HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE


Dear Shaded Viewers,

Every season, I eagerly anticipate the HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE collection, and this time was no exception. Titled “Up, Up, and Away,” the collection was showcased at the Mobilier National during Paris Fashion Week. The show exuded freshness and lightness, drawing inspiration from the wind and its effects on various objects like kites and parachutes. This theme was beautifully reflected in the use of lightweight and sheer materials that billowed and moved gracefully with the airflow. The setting was perfect, with tall white stems in the center of the catwalk bending with the wind, and the backdrop of Paris providing blue skies and a cool breeze.

The ethereal and delicate collection introduced its first looks with Windswept Plaid, a print mimicking the random, spontaneous patterns created by strong winds. This plaid, along with muted earthy tones and vibrant accents of orange, blue, and green, created a dynamic yet minimalistic aesthetic.

Inspiration came from aerial sports, with new silhouettes floating as lightly as kites in the air. Hooded cape-like coats appeared lighter than air, their flowing movement enhancing the grandeur of their open-wear design. Voluminous silhouettes dominated, emphasizing ease of wear and the natural motion of the garments.

Incorporating functional and utilitarian elements, the collection extended beyond pleated fabrics to include nylon trenches and rain macs in neutral hues. These pieces featured innovative design elements such as parachute-like straps and concealed belts, enabling easy carrying and adjusting for wearer comfort.

Noteworthy series within the collection included:

  1. WINDSWEPT SHIRT: Hand-pleated shirts with curved pleats mimicking wind-blown waves, featuring long ties that can sway in the wind.
  2. KITE: Garments inspired by kite structures, with sculptural shapes and adjustable button fastening systems.
  3. FRESHEN: A blend of recycled nylon and cotton, offering a soft feel and vibrant colors, equipped with spacious square pockets.
  4. PARACHUTE: Short coats and jackets with harness-like straps promoting air circulation, creating rounded silhouettes and featuring hidden inner belts for easy transport.
  5. KITE COAT: Coats designed with double stitching and curved seams, foldable into their pockets like a kite.
  6. MC JANUARY: Coats in vibrant colors with soft, rounded silhouettes and arm openings for versatile styling.

The collection continued the legacy of Issey Miyake’s innovative spirit, merging functionality with elegant design, and emphasizing the relationship between clothing and natural elements. This season’s offerings captured the essence of wind-borne movement, delivering a crisp, clean, and utilitarian aesthetic synonymous with the brand. We all left the location feeling joy and harmony, a feeling that is somehow embedded in the DNA of the brand and that emotion is contagious.

The “Up, Up, and Away” collection was a breathtaking way to start Paris Fashion Week, leaving a lasting impression of lightness, innovation, and elegance.



Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.