Democratizing the Runway: Diesel’s Transparent Revolution Under Glenn Martens at MFW AW24 by Leticia Dare

Dear Shaded Viewers,


In the latest spectacle that is Diesel’s Fall-Winter ’24 collection, Glenn Martens plays the role of the fashion world’s most democratic demagogue, flinging open the once sacrosanct backstage doors with a flourish that’s as revelatory as it is revolutionary. Imagine, if you will, a world where the mysteries of Milan’s most buzzed-about ateliers are just a click away, where the preparation pandemonium traditionally shrouded in secrecy becomes a spectacle for the global gaze. Martens, in his infinite wisdom, has turned the tables—or rather, the cameras—outward, transforming the Diesel universe into a veritable open house of high fashion.

For a breathtaking 72 hours leading up to the grand unveil, Diesel aficionados and the fashion-curious alike were granted a voyeuristic voyage through the inner sanctums of creation. From the frenzied final fittings to the casting calls that conjure the catwalk’s magic, Martens and his team were under the watchful eye of the world. And in a climactic twist, the runway itself morphed into a digital coliseum, hosting a thousand faces from far-flung corners of the globe, each participant a testament to Diesel’s pledge of fashion for all.

Martens, ever the avant-garde artisan, has taken the ethos of transparency to its zenith. The collection itself is a labyrinth of layers, each piece a palimpsest of textures and techniques that tease the senses. Fabrics are manipulated with a kind of alchemical magic—jersey devoré shirts and tanks bear the marks of an imagined exertion, while denim is coated only to reveal its true self upon closer inspection, a metaphor perhaps for the unveiling process itself.

The designs are a riot of contradictions: knitwear mimics denim through trompe l’oeil, while faux fur and muslin engage in a dance of destruction and revelation. Martens crafts a narrative of hidden depths, urging a second glance to uncover the secrets woven into the fabric of his creations. Accessories, too, play their part in this grand illusion, from bags that capture the fierce gaze of the wild to sunglasses that meld organic form with distressed finish, each piece a cog in the machine of Martens’s vision.

But beyond the tactile and the tangible, what Martens has masterfully curated is a moment of connection. The digital front row, a mosaic of humanity linked by a shared spectacle, underscores the essence of Diesel under Martens’s stewardship: a brand not just seen but experienced, where the barriers between creator and consumer dissolve in the shared ecstasy of fashion.

As Martens himself posits, this is fashion stripped of its halo, a demystification that aligns perfectly with his tenure at Diesel—a tenure marked by a relentless quest to redefine luxury, to make it something not just to be admired from afar but to be engaged with, in all its imperfect, chaotic glory. The result? A collection that not only dazzles with its innovation and craftsmanship but also invites us to reconsider our relationship with fashion itself. Diesel’s trajectory under Martens’s guidance is not just about the clothes; it’s about the stories they tell, the doors they open, and the conversations they start. In a world often criticized for its exclusivity, Martens has ushered in an era of inclusivity, proving, if ever there was doubt, that fashion is, indeed, for everyone.



Leticia Dare


Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.