A sexual twist at Ann Demeulemeester PFW F/W 23 by Leticia Dare


Dear Shaded Viewers,


Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s debut collection for Ann Demeulemeester was a tribute to the iconic designer, and the result was a stunning showcase of her signature style infused with his own modern sensibility. Bookended by identical looks in black and white, the feather bandeau sculpted from leather was a treasured Demeulemeester motif, while the bias-cut maxi skirts were a marvel of drapery and movement.

De Saint Sernin’s sex-positive crystal chainmail tanks and leather micro shorts have already carved a niche for themselves, but his challenge now is to win over the fiercely loyal fans of Demeulemeester. However, with the house founder’s blessing and guidance, de Saint Sernin seems poised for success.

The men’s suits were a highlight of the collection, worn in signature Demeulemeester style with undone white button-downs. The bias-cut silk skirts were also a standout, paired with shearling shrugs and capelets. The chiffon version showcased the tucks and darts that allow them to drape so beautifully. De Saint Sernin’s decision to have the models cross their arms over their bare chests added a tender touch, but some may have wanted to see more of his take on Demeulemeester’s signature tank tops and tailored jackets and coats.

Despite this, de Saint Sernin’s range is evident in this collection. The curious and committed will surely be back next season to see where he spreads his wings. Overall, his debut for Ann Demeulemeester was a graceful homage to the legendary designer, infused with de Saint Sernin’s own modern vision.




Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.