Twisted denim and trompe l’oeil at Y-Project PFW SS23 – text by Leticia Dare



Dear Shaded Viewers,


Denim was twisted, manipulated, cut, frayed and booted at Y-Project this season. As the raised gravel runway crunched underneath each models boot, Glenn Martens showed key signature shapes of past seasons heightened and manipulated to produce a new take on some of his ‘classics’. Familiar yet so fresh, you could see his time at Diesel has served him well.


He played with new trompe l’oeil pieces as a second season partnership with Jean Paul Gaultier which was based around impressions of clothing such as rib-knits, jeans and camisoles. Each look was so detailed it required a second take and as each new look progressed down the runway the music sped up to the pinnacle peak of an Avant Garde wedding look complete with a layered hood-like veil.


The jewelry was an absolute stand out, with finger flipping earrings in gold, layered chains and large rose motifs that looked like crunched metal. Dresses were like second skins, transparent yet twisted with matching gloves. The key take away this season were the tank tops that looked almost impossibly suspended on shoulders through intricate invisible wiring. So innovative and no doubt the show stopping pieces of the collection. Glenn is such a talented designer and really one of the best.





Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.