Prada went all out for the spring summer 22 collection, presenting it live from both Milan and Shanghai. Two cities, two models, two looks, two designers… everything doubled and shown simultaneously one after the other, connecting the east and west, the physical and digital.

The complementary sets were decorated with various video screens, presenting a unique experience for the viewers by portraying technology’s ability to transcend borders and redefine the meaning of community. While the setting space in Milan was furnished with cubicles, Shanghai had connecting curves… seemed fitting for the culture of the two cities; one referencing individualism, the other citing collectivism.

The collection, called “Seduction, Stripped Down” was the first physical show Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented together since the outbreak of the pandemic. To mark the occasion, the co-creative directors explored the language of seduction and elegance, understanding what it means today and redefine what we perceive as sexy.

“We thought of words like elegant – but this feels so old-fashioned. Really, it’s about a language of seduction that always leads back to the body. Using these ideas, these references to historical pieces, this collection is an investigation of what they mean today, what seduction means.” Prada said in a statement.

Mini-skirts had vibrant silk trains on the back (some came with a bow, others in a knot), corset infused dresses sculpted the waist, brassiere cups on knitwear sweaters defined the breasts, short dresses had sharp cut-outs (some shaped like a Prada V) exposing the back. This was the new modern elegance according to Prada and Simons, a new portrayal of sensuality and temptation.

But the collection lacked warmth… and not even the leather jackets (which were given a vintage feel), nor the red lace gown were enough to warm it up. The silhouettes felt too stiff and rough for the naturally curvaceous human body. The vibrant coloured silks were so sharply cut that it looked like paper. The collection craved for something fluid and three-dimensional.

Aybuke Barkcin

Aybüke Barkçin is an art director, photographer, curator and writer that looks at fashion through the lens of political and societal dynamics. She completed her master's Creative Direction in POLIMODA, Italy and has a background in International Relations and Graphic Design. Her work can be found in her website: https://www.aybukebarkcin.com/