Yohji Yamamoto Accepts No Limits for Womenswear FW21 by Aybuke Barkcin


Dear Shaded Viewers,

A feeling of melancholy commanded Yohji Yamamoto’s Fall/Winter21 women’s wear digital show, as models emerged from the black theatrical curtains… like dark forest spirits wandering aimlessly.

Each garment carried a hand-made feeling. Patterns were explored without any constrictions and cut by the free-will of the designer who holds an admiration for what is imperfect. Perhaps that is why women’s wear presents endless possibilities for Yohji Yamamoto… he designs with a free-mind, without any concern to be accepted nor understood by others. His attention lies on constructing his dark poetic world where the body disappears under layers of black, bringing out an aura of mystery and shapeless silhouettes illustrate an effortless cool.

The designer decided to present the collection with a video-log combining both video and photography from the runway, as well as providing information on the textiles and materials used for each look. A smart strategy which will please both the audience and the buyers.

Compared to the past Spring/Summer season, this collection featured more wearable every-day pieces and stronger casting. The star of the season were the cow-leather jackets presented at the end of the show, which changed the tone of the collection giving the models a more powerful presence compared to the sensual dresses in the beginning. Most looks were accompanied by chains, fabrics and linings that extended from the garments, dragged away… slowing the body down.

With each season our perception of creativity and innovation is challenged in Yohji’s designs and to him, there is no limit.

Aybuke Barkcin

Aybüke Barkçin is an art director, photographer, curator and writer that looks at fashion through the lens of political and societal dynamics. She completed her master's Creative Direction in POLIMODA, Italy and has a background in International Relations and Graphic Design. Her work can be found in her website: https://www.aybukebarkcin.com/