Lucio Vanotti SS17 at Pitti Uomo

Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,

Referencing the Renaissance in Florence is a little predictable, though Lucio Vanotti looked beyond the surface of convenience, and specifically at the work of Masaccio in his SS17 collection. Masaccio, who found boring the flattened, planar style of Gothic painting, took to linear perspectival representation for the first time in art. He created a sense of depth on the canvas, and thus the first lifelike rendering of space, people and objects.

Masaccio’s way was calculated but ultimately about life and the human. This is where Vanotti’s universe finds parallel, with his almost mathematical take on contemporary minimalism and personal approach to high-quality and often tactile fabrics. Houndstooth in silk was creped and light, and white silhouettes of Vanotti’s beloved greyhound were woven into white shirts. Jackets and coats closed under rope, and shoes made in collaboration with Mars

Sophie Joy Wright