Dear Shaded Viewers,
I’m still in a sort of Georgian mood. Let’ talk more about what I liked during those days.
Tamuna is very promising designer who started her Atelier in Tbilisi in 2002. Her catwalk show was among the most refined, the setting carefully curated and enhanced by the presence of the Georgian National Philharmonic Orchestra who delighted us all. A collection composed of classic staples, a simple palette of delicate pastel hues in pink, beige and neutral tones combined with alluring black. Dresses cut in cozy fabrics or draped in silk were fluid and quite ladylike mostly focusing on eveningwear, with little black dresses revisited in new proportions and color blocking or bi-color Mondrian-inspired effects created by the injection of powdery pink. And more loosely draped satin trenches, shimmering palazzo pants and midi-length gowns. Her creations are adored by Doutzen Kroes, Ksenia Sobchak and Evelina Khromtchenko.
Eloshi by Lela Eloshvili, has won a number of awards since graduating from Tbilisi State Academy of Arts in 2001. This season she presented a collection inspired by Rorschach’s Inkblot Test and German biologist Ernst Haeckel's drawings, combining her signature understated , graceful and bon-ton style with her talent for exclusively creating fabrics and print. Layered silhouettes, injected with bits of transparency demonstrated her eye for embellishment, such as on a black-and-white marble-print tank with D-ring straps. A dramatic collared dress in emerald green exuded feminine allure with a loose draped silhouette and shoulder slits cu tinto the long billowing sleeves, revealing a glimpse of bright blue beading. Vegetation prints adorn dresses and duster jackets- I liked them ut the quality of the prints could have been higher to guarantee a more polished and finished look.
Litkovskaya, created by Ukranian designer Lilia Litkovskaya, focuses on minimalistic womenswear with bold shapes and a careful attention to tailoring as inspired by classic men’s sartorial codes. The Spring-Summer 2016 collection is a study on ritual dresses and military uniforms with influences from old Americana. A blend of masculine and feminine style elements, Lilia Litkovskaya reworked menswear styls in innovative materials like rubber coating, stretch leather and reversible sequins. Litkovskaya, always keen on texture and depth in her collections, piled blush pink, lavender, and citrine sequins onto styles including slouchy white trousers and sculpted mini-dresses. I loved the leather coats and waistcoats, very a sort of chic workwear appeal. Everything look effortless, well tailored and original. The collection is already sold internationally at Opening Ceremony. Well done!
Datuna by Datuna Sulikashvili has a reputation for drama and theatricality, presenting as the final show of the day in the now abandoned early-20th-century Apollo Theater, mysterious and eerie location. The collection, too, shared some of this dark romance, mostly all in black with injections of color and rich materials, such as in a black robe adorned with traditional Georgian floral patterns, woven in red, green and yellow. I like the attitude of the collection mainly because I saw what I was looking for: Georgian tradition put into a contemporary new vision. I could see some folkloristic motifs adorning the simpler styles that really got me intrigued. Like if I could bring a piece of Georgia wearing one of those. Slinky black lace and oversize bows embellished long dresses and slick satin and velvet created texture and interest. Fans of the brand include the First Lady of Georgia, no surprise!