Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,

Post traditional-Kenzo-branded-breakfast, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon positioned teams of models on carpet boxes that floated along this season's runway in quite the spectacle. It was here that the magic carpet ride of the ‘global traveller’ began. Or did it? There certainly was a nice mix of prints, jacquards and shoes reminiscent of those Chinese-massage-sole slides – the kind you find at dinky corner pharmacies – transformed with a Lim-Leon touch. Though the chevron and sporty details, like those cross-back dresses and mesh shirts with zig-zag hems felt less ‘holiday souvenir’ and more ‘I bought this at #Kenzo’. Even those shoes extended into thigh-high patent boots whose lattice was thick enough to create more of a dehydrated checkerboard look, sucking out any cultural reference and injecting well-merchandised now-ness. This is not a bad thing by all means. Relevance is essential. Though the context of the inspiration I found perplexing. Especially when I listened to that uplifting soundtrack reminiscent of annoying hold music, though more PC-sounding. Totally now! Also the elements of constructivism-meets-Memphis in primary-coloured looks and geometric belt-bags; all very cool, though not exactly a ‘holiday adventure’. 

Imagery from

– Sophie Joy 



Sophie Joy Wright