Dear Shaded Viewers,
Milan Fashion Week was a blast, have a read at the latest reviews, more to follow…
Antonio Marras (first three pictures)
Antonio has a truly unique and poetic approach to fashion, you can see it from his invitations (that are most of the times an extract of his moodboards) or the settings of his shows, until the concept that lies beneath each collection. This time he has however explored a totally different territory compared to his past collections, instead of his country or dramatic atmospheres he decided to set his collection in the vibrant city of New York. With a vintage yellow cab on the catwalk, everybody thought about a reference to Robert De Niro in Taxi Driver but apart from some velvet suits and military ones (in a camouflage), the main idea was to portrayed the look of a man that could recall Costantino Nivola, Italian artist from Sardinia (a region in South of Italy and home to Antonio Marras) and Travis Bickle the real crazy character that inspired the movie. The collection was a tension between sartorial and casual, the camouflage is used in different tones and even as embroidery for shirts, patchworks of multiple fabrics and 50’s style prints that gave a certain twist of dandy. Color block shoes and thick shearling hats.
Mauro Grifoni (2 looks on sky blue background-1 shot in the showroom with Loise Follain and 2 models)
Back to the 70’s! The fall winter 2015 looks back at the 70’s style. Tailored coats and sporty style too thanks to the use of materials such as neoprene (everyone is using it), lurex, denim and of course, leather. The colours range from basic grey, camel and black to sky blue, red, to the shades of brown, rust and ochre. It’s a collection that meets all needs, from the formal tuxedo to the glencheck suit, from the tecno-mac to the biker jacket with raw denim pants. On the occasion of the presentation held at Palazzo Grifoni in via Santo Spirito there was a little preview of the Woman’s Pre-Collection at the presence of Grifoni’s new muse: Louise Follain. Louise a trendsetter, a student and a model. She loves Paris and rock music, she looks like an exact copy of Jane Birkin (with a little bit of her daughter Lou Dillon too). Quintessentially classy and perfect to be dressed in 70’s style outfits she sat with me to talk about men’s fashion and we agreed on one point: elegance in a man is when he doesn’t act like he cares. It has to be natural and not forced, and we women are intrigued at first sight.
Hogan (watch the video)
“I wanted Hogan to look more classic and sporty yet more aggressive at the same time. Everyone is wearing gym clothes in cool proportions with real clothes layered on top-this collection explores a luxed-up, more deliberate version” says Simon Holloway the british designer behind the Hogan’s collection. Once again are the urban settings of New York the ideal location of this dynamic man, that easily goes from sneakers to suit, maybe all at the same time. Hogan wants to look forward without of course denying the true spirit of the brand: casual and from some seasons formal as well. From double breasted suits and military coats, from shearlings to flannels, to varsity jackets and alpine motifs for heavy knits. The palette is simple: grey, stone, white, camel, navy and black; yet the message is clear: feel at ease, sleek and comfy at the same time.
Leitmotiv (in showroom pics and detail shots)
Fun and cheerful as always. Fabio Sasso and Juan Caro continue their toy story look a like looks introducing a superhero’s design “Super Leit”, animal characters (such as the rabbit and the giraffe) tribal motifs for knits, ponchos and maxi scarves, till the biker attire for a style that is able to mix between sporty twists and the paintings of the pop artist Roy Lichtenstein. These are daring looks even if the are more sober ones and the introduction of the bags: I will wear myself the black leather handbags. From ultra-colored tartan shirts with the comics print and the patchworks on the denims, to the silver leather varsity jacket or the iconic bicolor bomber with the horns logo in the middle, the full wardrobe of a urban hero is served.
Vivienne Westwood (from Vivienne Westwood exit till the end)
Dame Vivienne wrote in her press release that she wants to pay homage to a man that does a lot in terms of charity, his organic farming activities, his social support and she wants to point it out. Who is this incredible man then? I had to look twice. She put Prince Charles’ visage on T-shirts (with a military hat that reminded me of Che Guevara)-describing him as the “patron saint” of the collection. Savile Row’s suits go together with funny radical casualwear and even a sterling banknote prints and an exit with a model holding multiple shoppers, as to remind the motto “buy less, choose well”? I loved a windowpane-check trousers and a borderline tartan peaked jacket as well as the shearling 70’s coat and her iconic loose fit pants. To complete the looks: sneakers, country boots, punk boots, heels and clutches, that made think that this no-gender fashion week was not yet over, from Edmund Ooi to Prada from County of Milan to again Vivienne that also show some women’s looks with models wearing shiny satin suits.