Fashion Fringe 2011

Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,

If you were looking for the effortlessly cool, most likely geometrically printed sheath dress that is springing up everywhere as the most reasonable choice in harsh times; you wouldn't have found it tonight at the Fashion Fringe show. The three finalist succeeded instead in bringing spectacle and fun back on the catwalk, starting from dreamy narratives and acquired British wit. There is a scent of fierce, irresponsible, young optimism to be felt in those dawning of the future of fashion, and I can't help but being thrilled about the seasons to come.

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"Flowers of Evil" by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman was awarded with the first prize. The collection deals with the painful metamorphosis of Daphne into nature; the violent, bright nature of Vang Gogh's or Frida Kahlo's painting. The designer Fyodor Podgorny coming out at the end wearing a kilt and an iron Maiden t-shirt made clear that Alexander McQueen was for them not only a teacher and a reference, but a  deliberate inspiration for them to pay homage to.

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A hint of Christopher Kane's mastery in color combinations was instead to be found in Heidi Leung's refreshing collection. Heidi managed to keep her work light and bright, without renouncing to perfect cuts and precious white-on-white embroidery. Flowery wedges and easy make-up seemed to lead light-hearted models to a promising future.

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"All The Riches She Deserves" by Nabil Nayal follows the affected drama of a rich lady calmly walking out of her burning house. Elegant and confident all the same, slightly less pale than the models we're used to, Nayal's woman is dressed in sculptural, powerful garments, perfected by the flames.

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