all photos by Sonnyphotos
Dear Shaded Viewers,
The Dries Van Noten menswear show yesterday in Paris was not just another entry in the city’s storied fashion calendar—it was a bold declaration of a new era. With Julian Klausner at the helm as creative director, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection marked his first full menswear outing for the house, and the result was nothing short of a triumph.
Klausner’s vision was unapologetically exuberant. The show exploded with color: canary yellow, fiery fuchsia, deep blue, and the bitterest orange, often colliding in a single look. These saturated hues were not mere embellishments but the backbone of a collection that refused to choose between sophistication and joy. Klausner’s approach—“I gave myself the freedom to embrace color”—was palpable in every piece, from crystal-embroidered tops to silk opera coats and plissé pajama pants.
The collection was a masterclass in balancing formal and casual, tradition and innovation. Klausner revisited the classics—trench coats, double-breasted blazers, tailored trousers—but filtered them through a lens of playful irreverence. Opera coats were shortened and rippled for dramatic effect; silk sarongs and cummerbunds appeared as both accessories and statements, sometimes cinching the waist, sometimes adding a “ludique” (playful) touch.
The silhouettes were fluid yet purposeful, with a deliberate softness to the tailoring: jackets that moved with the body, beaded bombers, and slouchy trousers that invited both comfort and confidence. Klausner’s background in womenswear was evident in the gentle, almost sensual approach to construction—tops with boat necks and shoulder pads, floral prints, and shimmering embellishments that blurred gender lines without ever feeling forced.
Klausner’s stated aim was to create “a very complete wardrobe from day to beach to evening,” and he delivered. The collection oscillated between the practical and the fantastical: ribbed cotton underwear finished at the knee, mini-shorts, and silk sarongs styled as weekday essentials, not just resortwear. This was a wardrobe for the individualist, for the man (or woman) who wants to reframe the way we think about dressing—intellectual, international, and gleefully unburdened by convention.
Opulence, Klausner insisted, is “a very important part of the brand,” and it was everywhere—beaded embroidery, vibrant prints, and fabrics that shimmered with every step. Yet, there was a generosity to the styling, a sense that these clothes were meant to be lived in, shared, and enjoyed. The show closed with the models gathering for a “class photo,” four rows deep, amid cheers and smiles—a fitting celebration for what many critics called the most celebrated collection of the European menswear season so far.
Julian Klausner’s debut menswear collection for Dries Van Noten was not about shocking the system, but about rewriting the rules with charm, grace, and a knowing wink. In a season where restraint often masquerades as sophistication, Klausner’s exuberant embrace of color, print, and playfulness felt like a breath of fresh air. This was menswear as mood—adventurous, inspiring, and, above all, joyful.
Yesterday in Paris, Dries Van Noten proved that the future of the house is in bold, confident hands. The magic remains, and it’s more vibrant than ever.
Later,
Diane
