Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers,
"Skirts you don't wear, a trench that is not there", reads the first line of the show notes from Vetements SS15. This subversion of sartorial assumptions was the clear focus of the show, and indeed the brand's identity. Coats were unlined, shirts and half/half dresses were de-tailored as remnants of their original forms, and trousers were mis-proportioned and dragging like a child in adults' clothes.
Of course this all has an air of Margiela about it, with no coincidence as the origins of the anonymous design team were with Mr Margiela himself, as well as at Celine. Though there was a distinct feeling of a new discovery at his show. Perhaps it's our context; when more and more designers are relinquishing new ideas and creativity to guarantee commercial success – often at the push of their investors – Vetements are not creating clothes for everyone. Whilst those track pants and distinctly 90's shrunken polo shirts would seemingly scream normcore, they're in fact serving an entirely different purpose with this almost-familiarity because indeed they're not there for you to wear.
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Images courtesy of Purple Diary
Happy Friday,
Sophie
