Dear Shaded Viewers,
To mark its tenth anniversary, GmbH returns to Paris with an event centred not on fashion alone, but on the two forces that have long informed the label’s creative practice: words and music.
While the brand has often described music as the starting point for each collection, poetry and literature have been just as central. References to writers have consistently shaped its work—from the AW25 collection, named after Norwegian modernist Gunnvor Hofmo’s From Another Reality, to its most recent runway show, where guests found poems by Bertolt Brecht, Joy Harjo and others on their seats in place of a traditional press release.
For GmbH, reading poetry has become a way of navigating a world that often feels increasingly hostile and violent, while remaining attentive to moments of heartbreaking beauty. It is this belief in literature as a space for reflection, resistance and imagination that inspired the first GmbH Salon de Thé.
Hosted at the Reference Studios Salon during Paris Fashion Week, the gathering brings together a selection of contemporary poets and writers for an intimate afternoon of readings, music and conversation. Conceived as an oasis amid the intensity of the fashion calendar, the Salon seeks to create space for listening, exchange and reflection—and perhaps reclaim the true meaning of a word too often invoked in fashion: community.
Founded in 2016 by Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik, the Berlin-based label has established a distinct visual language through predominantly menswear collections that reshape the silhouette, emphasize the body’s musculature, and draw inspiration from Germany’s underground club culture.
For the occasion, multidisciplinary artist MJ Harper delivered a captivating live performance with Trace Polly, transforming the space into a moment of collective emotion where poetry, music, and self-expression converged.
Harper’s practice moves fluidly between music, performance, and visual culture. Guided by an instinctive approach to storytelling, they explore themes of identity, intimacy, and transformation, creating work that is both emotionally resonant and culturally attuned. Their distinctive creative language, at once raw, poetic, and contemporary, has established them as a compelling voice within a new generation of artists redefining the dialogue between art, fashion, and performance.
As Harper remarked during the evening, GMBH is “more than a fashion label, it is a platform for connection.” Rooted in a shared cultural perspective, the brand brings together a community that values creativity, dialogue, and self-expression. Through its collections, collaborations, and cultural programming, GMBH cultivates a sense of belonging that extends beyond clothing, creating a space where diverse identities and experiences converge. More than dressing a generation, the brand continues to build a community shaped by authenticity, inclusivity, and shared cultural consciousness.
The event featured a talk by Edward Buchanan, a designer and consultant from Ohio, USA, as well as the founders of GmbH. Buchanan’s career has been defined by innovation, inclusivity, and collaboration. In 1995, he joined Bottega Veneta as its first-ever Ready-to-Wear Design Director.
While developing Sansovino 6, his knitwear-focused label produced exclusively in Italy, Buchanan also collaborated closely with Virgil Abloh at Off-White, contributing to design projects and helping foster dialogue among Black creatives across generations. Since 2021, he has served as the Milan correspondent for Perfect magazine while continuing to mentor emerging designers.
The founders of GmbH also shared insights into their collaborative design practice, discussing how their work combines tailoring, streetwear, and social commentary while exploring themes of identity, community, and contemporary culture.
Lately,
Eva
