There is something profoundly intimate about encountering the work of Niccolò Pasqualetti – almost as a secret dialogue between textile, body, and mind. For Fall/Winter 2026, the Florentine designer nurtures the classics of the contemporary wardrobe, grounded in dense, tactile materials yet illuminated by forms.
Glittering pulse of Italian disco with Brivido Divino by Donatella Rettore, the only way to revive the audience mid-fashion week, set the runway alight with a kinetic energy mirroring the collection’s duality between raw material and transcendent form. Shimmering sequins glance under the light, amplifying movement – just stand there and let the sequins do all the disco work for you. All eyes on the nude sequin full-length dress held delicately at the neckline by a sculptural necklace. The effect is simple yet magnetic. The familiar is repeatedly pushed toward the elemental. Jewelry plays an essential role in the collection: sculptural silver pieces, initially perceived as rigid objects, softened once worn, becoming fluid extensions of the body. Meanwhile, innovative soft structures linked by metal rings are spiralling over the arm or the waist. A graduate of Central Saint Martins who first studied architecture in Venice, Niccolò Pasqualetti carries a deep awareness of construction in his work. His tailoring follows a similar logic: classic silhouettes—trench coats, jackets, blazers—interrupted by asymmetries and unconventional proportions, relatively instinctive.
“Minimalist in spirit but maximalist in curiosity” as a motto, Pasqualetti explores and layers fabrics across his silhouettes—pebbled calfskin and soft studded lambskin, with knitwear cohabitating. A mad crush for the metallic sheen lambskin paired with tailored jeans cut and constructed to resemble a suit – my new mandatory dose of quiet drama. LVMH Prize Semi-Finalist‘s work continues to grow season after season through a process he describes as building through deconstruction, revealing new layers of identity. Pasqualetti Fall/Winter 2026 confirmed that approach: a wardrobe grounded in craftsmanship resolutely open to perpetual transformation.
