Dear Shaded Viewers,
Berlin Fashion Week pulsed with a new kind of energy—one that felt both urgent and intimate, as if the city itself was reclaiming its place as Europe’s creative agitator. This season, the runways became stages for reflection, solidarity, and transformation, with designers using their platforms to push past spectacle and into something more resonant.
Marie Lueder’s SLⱯY was a fever dream of myth and metamorphosis. Staged among towering silver Venus flytraps, the show unfolded as a performance piece: a woman collapsing, then lifted by another—vulnerability and resilience woven into every sculpted sweater and distressed mini. Lueder’s mix of ribbed knits, cargo pants, and dragon graphics conjured ‘90s Berlin grit, but the real power was in the storytelling. The collection didn’t just reference Saint George and the Dragon; it recast the myth for an era of digital overload and collective trauma, inviting us to see fashion as both armour and invitation to change.
David Koma’s “I LOVE DAVID” menswear was a playful flex—equal parts Beckham nostalgia, Michelangelo muscle, and Koma’s signature sparkle. The show riffed on masculine archetypes with rhinestone tees, draped tailoring, and hibiscus-embroidered surf shorts, all styled with a wink. Koma’s man is self-aware, a little irreverent, and not afraid to be both tough and tender. The result? Menswear that’s as much about self-mythology as it is about self-expression.
GmbH’s show opened with a minute of silence—a radical act in a world that rarely pauses. The collection that followed was a study in contrasts: sharply tailored jackets softened by draped silks, earthy tones shot through with metallic hope. Accessories—chains, harnesses—hinted at both protection and adornment, while the mood was one of collective healing. GmbH reminded us that sometimes, the most subversive gesture is to simply hold space for feeling.
Ottolinger brought the after-dark voltage, channeling Berlin’s rebellious spirit into deconstructed latex, raw seams, and wedge heels. The vibe was “older sisters you never had”—protective, daring, and a little wild. Each look felt lived-in and fearless, a love letter to those who thrive on risk and reinvention. In a season where many played it safe, Ottolinger doubled down on chaos and individuality, defining Berlin style on its own terms.
On my last day, I slipped into Mowalola Ogunlesi’s pop-up—a riot of color, attitude, and raw possibility. The space buzzed with her signature energy: futuristic silhouettes, saturated hues. It was the perfect finale—proof that Berlin’s fashion scene isn’t just alive; it’s evolving, and it’s impossible to ignore.
Later,
Diane
