Dear Shaded Viewers,
Julian Klausner’s debut as creative director for Dries Van Noten was nothing short of a triumph, seamlessly blending the brand’s rich heritage with his own fresh perspective. The Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection, aptly titled “Behind the Curtain,” unfolded like a captivating performance at the iconic Opéra Garnier in Paris, setting the stage for a new era in the Belgian fashion house’s storied history.
Klausner’s childhood fascination with his family’s costume box served as a poignant inspiration, infusing the collection with a sense of wonder and transformation. This personal touch resonated throughout the show, as each piece seemed to whisper tales of bygone eras while firmly asserting its place in contemporary fashion.
The collection’s silhouettes danced effortlessly between past and present, with 1930s-inspired tailoring gracefully coexisting alongside modern interpretations. Sloping shoulders and vintage head caps nodded to a glamorous past, while metallic oversized suits with Art Deco influences boldly claimed their space in the here and now. Klausner’s masterful play with proportions was evident in the enlarged cuffs, sculpted matelassé curls, and ingenious fold-over waists, each element adding a fresh twist to classic tailoring.
Craftsmanship took center stage, with luxurious handwork and spontaneous details elevating every garment. Whipstitched shoelaces and intricate embroideries echoed the opulence of the opera house, while the incorporation of sumptuous fabrics like velvet and rug jacquards added depth and texture to the collection.
The color palette was a feast for the eyes, with rich jewel tones of bottle green, petrol, and violet harmoniously complementing classic shades of grey, navy, and black. Touches of ballet blush and playful polka dots added levity, creating a visual symphony that perfectly captured the essence of the brand.
Standout pieces abounded, from a floor-length wool coat with exposed stitches that set the tone for the entire collection, to military-style jackets lined in vibrant purple that added an unexpected touch of elegance. Evening wear shone bright with draped gowns in floral devoré fabric and a white fringed coat that embodied opulent wearability.
Klausner’s attention to detail was impeccable, with lavish floral brooches, lavallière collars, and intricate jewelry made from knotted shoelaces demonstrating his commitment to both luxury and creativity. The accessories, including shoes with exaggerated round toes, were the perfect finishing touches to an already stellar collection.
Perhaps most impressively, Klausner achieved a harmonious balance between romance and practicality, a hallmark of the Dries Van Noten brand. Luxurious fabrics and intricate details were seamlessly incorporated into wearable, everyday silhouettes, while ornate evening wear found its counterpoint in more structured daytime pieces.
This debut collection not only honored the legacy of Dries Van Noten but also confidently charted a course for its future. Klausner’s vision, rooted in the brand’s DNA yet unafraid to explore new territories, promises an exciting journey ahead. As the curtain fell on this inaugural show, it was clear that Julian Klausner had not just stepped into big shoes, but had begun to leave his own indelible footprint on the world of fashion. All I can say is Bravo, well done.
