Dear Shaded Viewers,
Monday was the starting point of the fashion week. French when doing their usual favorite activities : yelling and honking in the center of Paris. But in the secluded rue de Montmorency an unusual car was blocking the street : a luscious black Cadillac. It was for the Spring Summer 25 Runway of Paris underground sensation : Vincent Pressiat. Pressiat was presenting his latest collection « Burning Era » where destruction meets refinement.
The car, whose his favorite motive was here. If you’re not aware of the story, it’s one of his cherished childhood memories when his grandma offered him Barbies and Cadillac at Christmas. But he managed to blend the symbolic of this two objects : Feminine and raw ! The car was surrounded by electric heaters and dripping of the rain. The tone is set, it’s like if we were at a luscious mob hit. Inside, black and white sand are disseminated in some corners. Gruttling noise are on loop and a echoing voice calling Pressiat. After half an hour of waiting, a shift in the sounds was heard.
Then Rebecca and later Max from the group Lulu Von Trapp performs in a deconstructed white dress with a torn bottom. She evolves around models walking. Some seem to follow her body presence and others wear bigger pieces. If you think about it, it’s almost like an anticipation movie. There’s always an insane character trying to put down the main character by challenging him mentally. Pressiat does that with us, but with looks that are more and more astonishing. Tops and dresses are light and structured with supima cotton. They are covering all the silhouettes. Trains and trench-coats are the key pieces. Most models wore demential leather boots that turns them into soviet James Bond villains. Pressiat made also a good color choice. He’s one of the few choosing colors compared to last year global black and white tendency. His colors are folded, we can see deep ocher, burgundy or Khahki.
He also chooses his accessories collaborators well, that are avant garde themselves ! Vanille Vermoes made imposing scarves in resina… 3D-printed ! Thierry Lasry made round and huge eyewear. But the climatic moment were the masks of Mario Emanuele Salini. The final look was sublimated with a circular textured mask that brings us to another movie genre… aliens ! Once again , Pressiat took us to a complete universe. His outfits would definitely give the model his own narrative. Those who understand his universe are the avant garde with queer performers who got rid of classical genres codes and representation such as Sam Quealy or the Fantasma Circus Erotica but we wish him to do a more impressive runway next March or who knows… a movie !
Special Thanks to Bertrand Grimont who let the show be held at his Gallery
Later
Mael Heinz