Dear Shaded viewers,
Lutz Huelle spotted a couple dressed in formal wear walking down the street: the man in a suit and the woman in a flowing dress. He began to question how these two most classic wardrobe archetypes could be drawn together. In what way could the best of both be combined? From this thought, his SS25 collection took off. He proposed a wardrobe for a confident, modern woman, one that is both effortless and empowered. Expertly, he combined elements from both ends of the formalwear spectrum into contemporary, balanced, and refreshingly fun garments that will stand the test of time.
Huelle began by borrowing pieces from a traditional men’s wardrobe. The suit jacket was sliced at the waist and arms, reimagined as a cropped shirt and matching skirt. Styled with champagne-gold sequin gloves, the looks were ready for a glass of bubbly after office hours. Poplin shirts were reworked leaving volume at the shoulders and bust but drawn into the waist like unrestrictive bustiers. The traditional power of a man’s garment therefore transformed to flirt with a woman’s form instead.
Elastic jersey tubes, some embroidered with golden sequins, were attached to the tops of suit jackets and shirting, this time cut below the bust. With shoulders left exposed, they became equally sensual and sophisticated bandeau tops. Wool and denim shorts were cut and set on viscose to adopt a low waistline without exposing the midriff, freeing the body for movement. Lengths of lace added floaty elegance to the heaviness of an oversized bomber, denim jackets, and blazers, and softened the boxiness of oversized T-shirt dresses.
Voluminous construction appeared in a coat, duchesse, and denim jacket. Pleating traditionally seen on tuxedos was transferred across the chest of each, rounding at the sleeves to emphasize their bell-shaped shoulders. The final few looks gave new shapes to vintage, pure silk scarves which added vibrancy to simple handbags and a draped top.
While his inspiration came from the idea of marrying the traditional formal wear of men and women, Huelle’s SS25 collection extended this premise, harmonizing the contrast between refined and relaxed. This was exemplified in his choice of location and music, the magnificent library of the Institut National D’Histoire D’Art created in 1860 and an upbeat disco-pop soundtrack that one couldn’t help but groove to.
Later,
Eliya
