Fringe or Foe? by Eliya Weinstein

  

Dear Shaded viewers,

Fringe or foe? That is how Isabel Marant identifies her tribeswomen this season. She brought the Amazon spirit straight to the runway, infusing it with her artisanal craftsmanship and chic Parisian codes. Though the real sky had darkened and the air had cooled, a gradient glow was cast by monoliths, illuminated in the same warm hues of the SS25 collection. A full suede look featuring an oversized vest with boxy shoulders and a waist-defining laces opened the show. A bare chest set the tone: this collection is for the Isabel Marant woman – proud, modern, and undoubtedly wild at heart.

From there, the colors of the sunset burst forth – rusty pinks and oranges, rich mauve and burgundy, and the deep shadows of midnight blue, chocolate brown, and charcoal. Hypnotic patterns on fluid dresses were inspired by South American butterflies, as if crafted from gifted wings. Intricate embroideries and braiding define their floaty shapes. Other tops and dresses featured braided cords, knots on silver rings, and slits woven together (a nod to the 2010’s boho savoir-faire) that offered variations of exposed skin of the chest and ribs. Many featured halter necklines, letting confidence exude from bare shoulders.

In a play on textures, different leathers and suede were brought together with blanket stitching and styling. Oversized leather jackets and lightly flared pants, laced at the center of a low waistline, projected an edgy toughness. Short shorts came with studs, silver eyelets for lacing, or metal buckle hardware, adding a touch of punky free spirit. The long tassels that hung from Aztec blanket weavings and a satiny fringe encompassing a top, skirt, and jacket brought a carefree flow to each step. Black and metallic grey evening dresses were made of knitted panels, attached by metal balls that left seductive slits of bare chest, stomach, and thigh. Other airy dresses gently sparkled, baring all through the reflections of clear sequins.

Modernity and effortlessness underscored the collection. This was rounded off by the flat soles of gladiator sandals and suede moccasin boots. The tassels and silver studs from the clothing made their way to the shoes and to suede satchel bags that swayed beside the body. Oversized bangles and chokers completed the looks like a layer of armor.

Later,

Eliya