Dear Shaded viewers,
It may have been the question on everyone’s minds, but “what is Dries Van Noten without Dries?” did not need to be asked. In their first collection without the Creative Director, the design team have shown fluency in the language of their mentor. Through his trust in the successive generation, his soul lives and breathes on in the studio.
The SS25 DVN collection was a full celebration of natural beauty. Patterns intertwined and caressed one another, styled with the symbiosis of a jungle. Orchid and other exotic floral details were abstracted to entirely new, hypnotic designs.The looks were presented in groups, creating a rhythm as colours transitioned from earthy hues to vibrant tones of orange, turquoise, red, and chartreuse, all glowing with ultra-saturation. Python-printed matte sequins and ornamental embroidery allowed light to reflect and shadows to deepen, as if seen through the enhanced vision of an animal. Spherical studs and folded metallic sequins adorned flowing garments, while mixed metals dangled from outerwear, catching the light with the delicacy of dew drops.
The clean lines of square-shouldered tailored jackets and the cinched waist of a button-down shirt paid homage to Dries’ classic design heritage. As well, subtleties in cuts like the lapels of jacket collars and the elongating flare of above-the-ankle pants were a blend of East and West sensibilities. Bermuda shorts and masculine stripes were softened in gentle colours for a modern, elegant expression of femininity. In their rare opportunity for creative freedom, the studio team spoke whispers of lingerie onto sleeveless dresses and tops with lace finishings. Relaxed yet graceful, they offer an optimistic new suggestion for the next era of DVN.
The contrasts of each look were harmonised by shoes that explored the same contradictions as the garments. Some were laced up the ankle, revisiting python-effect leather and complete with silver eyelets. Bright lacquered red, transparent earthy green, and silver bead embroidery were worked into other pairs. The snake carried through to the new “Satchel” bag and a shoulder bag clutched at the waist, finished with rounded studs that lined their thick handles.
Amongst the audience, Dries gave a smiling applause as his team stepped out to take a bow. Just as we have trusted in his designs for decades, we can now trust that he has left his namesake label in capable hands.
Later,
Eliya
