Masu Turns a New Leaf on Prep. By Eliya Weinstein

Dear Shaded viewers,

MASU is an upcoming Japanese label, headed by designer Shinpei Goto. His SS25 Men’s collection explores the “Ivy” codes of dress.

Literal inspiration is taken from the mature crowds in Japan, infusing a playful rejuvenation that makes argyle patterns and accordion pleats accessible to a younger sartorial perspective. Lightness is offered through lemon yellow and touches of silver throughout the collection, releasing the rigidity of classic “prep” design elements. Green, blue, and red fit together like puzzle pieces on marine stripes and peak out on vests and cardigans layered under blazers. The silhouettes of tailored pants and floor length tartan skirts become fluid and oversized, making them casual and youthful. Neck ties are elongated to reach the floor and ivy vines wrap around the arm of a leather jacket; a new leaf is turned.

Goto described to me that this playful, effortless energy reflects his personal outlook on fashion. By infusing into a traditional style, he hopes to make it accessible to younger crowds. He wanted to maintain respect towards the older generations loyal to “prep”, thus paid homage to the Japanese icon who introduced the American style to the East. The portrait of Kensuke Ishizu, a pioneer of the trend in the 1950s, appears on a grey sweatshirt and subtly on paper-bag style clutches in a nod to the cult legacy he left behind.

The MASU SS25 collection showed on Haussmann Boulevard in Paris. Age-inclusive casting affirmed that the youthful spirit of MASU is welcome to everyone (in fact the older models seemed to be having the most fun). When I asked about the music, familiar songs to me but in Japanese, Goto shared that like “prep”, he only knows them in the context of his home country. Bringing the style and music to Paris is a way for him to share what he loves and invite new waves of people to take part.