Rei Kawakubo’s Bold Declaration of Anger at Comme Des Garcons Fall/Winter 24 PFW by Leticia Dare

Dear Shaded Viewers,


In a raw and unfiltered expression of her current emotional state, Rei Kawakubo presented her latest collection, aptly titled “Anger,” capturing her profound discontent with the global state and her own inner turmoil. The collection is a candid reflection of Kawakubo’s frustration with the world’s injustices and her self-directed fury, marking a significant departure from her customary thematic explorations.

Kawakubo’s enduring affinity for the color black was prominent, symbolizing the depth of her anger, a sentiment that resonates with many who have revered her work over the decades. This collection stood out not only for its thematic boldness but also for breaking from tradition, showcasing models who displayed overt gestures of frustration and defiance, tearing down the proverbial fourth wall separating them from the audience.

The fashion spectacle unfolded like a theatrical narrative, with models in dramatic, blackened attire, embodying various facets of rage through their actions on the runway. The designs were imposing, with exaggerated shapes and motifs of constraint like barbed wire and chains, juxtaposed against elements of romanticism and glitz, suggesting a complex relationship between anger and beauty.

Kawakubo’s refusal to take a final bow, instead choosing to remain backstage, silently asserts her stance, leaving the audience with a final, somewhat hopeful image of a gleaming white coat adorned with ribbons and tulle. This collection is a testament to Kawakubo’s courage to confront and articulate the unspeakable, offering a scathing perspective on contemporary issues from a distinctly feminine viewpoint. Through this powerful fusion of fashion and raw emotion, Kawakubo challenges us to reflect on our own emotional states and the expressive potential of clothing in articulating deep-seated feelings.



Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.