Dear Shaded Viewers,
Martine Rose unveiled her SS23 collection within the unconventional confines of a disused sauna in Vauxhall. A faint sense of déjà vu lingered in the air, reminiscent of when Demna pioneered a similar aesthetic in Paris some years ago. In Rose’s world, men strutted down the runway donning flesh-toned negligees, biker jackets, and suspender-laden workwear, subtly evoking a worn-in quality. The ambiance exuded an irresistible blend of kinkiness and sensuality, with satin shirts, winklepickers, miniskirts, and sheer socks serving as the alluring sartorial pillars. The models, plucked straight from the streets, further reinforced Rose’s commitment to authentic representation.
Beneath the surface Rose aimed to draw attention to the vanishing community centers that have historically been vital for each successive wave of immigrants. Whether it be the West Indian, Turkish, Polish, or Irish communities, these centers have always played a pivotal role, acting as cultural hubs and safe spaces. The disappearance of many working men’s clubs, once the lifeblood of these communities, weighed heavily on Rose’s mind. This societal observation was cleverly intertwined with her meticulously crafted designs.
Jackets tailored with a forward pitch of the shoulders dominated the collection, defying the conventional notions of menswear. Trapeze-shaped silhouettes gracefully danced alongside the 90s rave-inspired looks included corsets and lingerie details, fuzzy knits, workwear, flash back to Comme des Garcons in the 90’s, and cheeky slogan tees. Rose seamlessly blurred the boundaries of gender, challenging traditional expectations. The harmonious fusion of these elements culminated in a bold collaboration with Clarks, as Rose became the esteemed footwear brand’s inaugural guest designer.
The timeless Oxford and Loafer received an audacious makeover, morphing into exquisitely reimagined iterations. Some bulbously rounded, others embellished with snakeskin prints and adorned with buckles breathed new life into the classic designs. The loafer was elevated by a chunky wedge heel epitomizing Rose’s penchant for audacity and innovation.
“Coming up Roses” by Martine Rose was more than just a fashion show; it was a testament to the indomitable spirit of immigrants and a powerful call for the preservation of communal spaces. Rose’s deft craftsmanship and unapologetic exploration of gender boundaries left an indelible mark, reminding us that fashion is a potent platform for social commentary and cultural celebration.
