A softer touch at Y/Project PFW F/W 23/24 by Leticia Dare

Dear Shaded Viewers,


Glenn Martens’ Y/Project Fall/Winter 23/24 collection was a testament to his unyielding creativity and ingenuity. The Belgian designer’s talent for innovation and construction was evident in his use of twisted and gathered shapes, sculptural forms, and wire draping, all of which challenged traditional construction techniques and elevated the collection to new heights.

As expected from Martens, denim was a key theme of the collection, a material that has become a staple for him since his time at Diesel. He shredded the fabric and used it as embroidery on a range of garments, creating delicate, organic shapes that were nothing short of breathtaking and innovative.

The collection also showcased ethereal tulle evening gowns in blush pink and ivory, adorned with denim shapes, in stark contrast to the edgier pieces that dominated the runway. Martens’ ability to switch between different styles and still maintain his signature aesthetic is a testament to his design skills.

The collection’s intriguing and dynamic juxtapositions were also evident in the sexually suggestive graphics from pornographic films printed on dresses, skirts, and tops. Martens expertly blended the soft and sensual with the audacious and bold to create a collection that left a lasting impression on its viewers.

The Handel aria, “Lascia ch’io pianga,” sung by 57 voices, added to the solemn and theatrical tone of the show, and served as a reminder of the shared experience of the pandemic and the need for unity.

Overall, the Y/Project Fall/Winter 23/24 collection was a testament to Martens’ technical skills and great effort, showcasing his ability to push boundaries and create something truly unique. With the use of innovative denim embroidery, juxtapositions of soft and bold elements, and a hauntingly beautiful soundtrack, Martens solidified his place as a leader in the fashion industry.



Leticia Dare





Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.