Dear Shaded Viewers,
There is something about an Issey Miyake collection that serves as a poetic mediation no matter what is going on in the outside world. Miyake allows us to transcend and float above it all. The collection was designed by Satoshi Kondo and the original music was performed and adapted by TrioSR9.
In the year of Triangle of Sadness, Miyake takes us into an analysis of the square, all things constructed around a square, a painting, a partition a piece of fabric and with that in mind the exploration and experimentation begins. Miyake likes to explore the space between the body and the garment. Some pieces are there seemingly to make you smile, others are more a play with textile and geometry. The setting was austere and dramatic with Trio SR9’s performance and then the models following lighted paths with the stark empty theatre as a backdrop.
Different themes were explored:
Canopy – represented the idea of a canopy covering the body in soft, stretchy textile with minimal stitching leaving the emphasis on the structure.
SQUARE SCHEME-1 / SQUARE SCHEME-2 / SQUARE SCHEME-3
Inspired by the idea of squares that move and transform, the SQUARE SCHEME uses different knitting techniques. The knitted squares are constructed organically by combining vertical and horizontal stitch structures. Irregular silhouettes are created naturally by combining knitted structures with woven squares. A square pattern is then printed, accentuating the changing shape of the garment.
RHYTHM CHECK
The RHYTHM CHECK series is inspired by the alternating rhythm of a check pattern. A yarn that shrinks when heated is woven in a grid pattern. The garment is then doubled in size before it is immersed in very hot water. The yarn shrinks and gives the garment a unique texture.
COUNTERPOINT: CHECK
The COUNTERPOINT: CHECK series consists of a coat and a jacket, both reversible. It is designed so that the reverse side of the coat contrasts with the outer part, allowing for different styles. The bodice of the coat is made in one piece and has different lengths at the front and back, allowing it to be worn in many different ways.
COUNTERPOINT
COUNTERPOINT is a seamless knitwear series characterised by irregular shapes made possible by different knitting techniques. The front and back of the pieces are knitted in different directions. The stitches pull and push each other, creating a twisted shape. The striped pattern emphasises the direction of the stitch and accentuates the twisted movement that envelops the body.
SHAPED CANVAS
The SHAPED CANVAS series is inspired by a painter’s canvas with an unconventional shape. It uses a double knitting technique that joins two pieces of fabric. The neck and body parts are knitted separately. The sharply angled garments and contrasting colours give the silhouette a unique character. They can be worn front to back.
RECTILINEAR / RECTILINEAR : MILLED
RECTILINEAR is a series designed with a composition of rectangles in contrasting colours, knitted horizontally with a linear pattern. The sharp-edged silhouette bounces up and down when the garment is in motion. The RECTILINEAR: MILLED coat series features the same pattern but knitted on a Jacquard machine. The design of the coat brings out the power of the pattern. Despite its bulky appearance, the coat is surprisingly light and comfortable.
SQUARE ONE
The SQUARE ONE series was the starting point for the design process of the collection. The bold printing of a square on the fabric echoes the initial inspiration from the very first stages of its conception. The series is characterised by its linear form and a certain firmness brought about by the use of Japanese paper. The garments are designed so that no excess fabric is produced during the production process.
SQUARE
The SQUARE bag is designed as if it were delicately and carelessly covered with a piece of fabric, creating a fluid drape when worn.
Now you have your geometry lesson, get closer to the garments and have some fun.
Later,
Diane
