A MODERN BATTLE THROUGH HISTORY AT RICK OWENS PFW F/W 23/24 BY LETICIA DARE

 

Dear Shaded Viewers,

 

This season the Master that is Rick Owens took his inspiration from his winter retreat, Luxor, Egypt . While creating this collection he was watching Cecil B. Demille’s movie The Ten Commandments while pumping iron to the tune of Brutalismus 3000.

“I HAVE ALSO USED EMBROIDERED IMAGERY FROM NEA OFFENDING PERFORMANCE ARTIST RON ATHEY — AN OLD FRIEND FROM HOLLYWOOD, WHO USED KENNETH ANGER’S VERY STYLIZED INTERPRETATION OF EGYPTIAN CEREMONY IN HIS 1970S UNDERGROUND FILMS AS THE INSPIRATION FOR HIS PERFORMANCE PIECE INCORRUPTIBLE FLESH, FROM WHICH HE GRACIOUSLY LENT ME AN IMAGE.

THIS COLLECTION IS ABOUT REDUCED ARCHITECTURAL SHAPES WITH A WHIFF OF SLEAZY SEVENTIES PSEUDO-MYSTICISM. SHARP SHOULDERS AND HIGH, TIGHT WAISTS FLARE TO THE ANKLE RECALLING AN ALMOST VICTORIAN SILLHOUETTE — A REFLECTION OF A PRIMNESS WE SEE IN A PREVALENCE OF CURRENT ONLINE JUDGEMENT.”

THERE IS A BITTERNESS TO CREATING A COLLECTION DURING A WAR — A DESIRE TO CONTRIBUTE OUR SOMBRE BEST IN AN INDUSTRY THAT MUST REMAIN STALWART, BUT WITH A SENSE OF FRUSTRATION THAT NOTHING IS ENOUGH.”

Sustainably thinking, flight jackets are made in nylons made from GRS (Global, Recycled Standard) certified recycled polyamide and dyed using a specialized technique that allows ecological natural pigments to be used on synthetic fibers. Black is dyed with bamboo charcoal, while green is achieved using olive waste. Certified organic cotton  comes from a family run mill in Lombardy, Shaggy jackets come from heavyweight moleskins woven in Lombardy, Italy using GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). Waxy and soft Pirarucu fish skins have been recycled from giant skins, indigenous communities in Brazil can now receive a significant income from something that would normally be discarded. The impeccable tailoring is executed using a compact mohair broken twill woven on 1950s vintage shuttle looms exclusively for the brand by Bonotto.

Tailoring was outstanding, loved the shredded mohair broken twill skirts, gloves were heroic as were the capes, the shoes, the entire collection took my breath away. Bravo once more to the Master and yes all hail to manskirts.

Later,

 

Leticia

 

Leticia Dare

Leticia Dare is the Fashion Director for ASVOF.

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