A Touch of Crude at Prada Spring Summer 23 – by Aybuke Barkcin

Prada opened the show in a peculiar soundtrack, hinting on sci-fi tunes. In the heavy shadow set, the models came out wearing looks which characterised “sequence of realities” as the Italian luxury house described.

Curtain lashes and chunky shoes were the stable for all the models. A sheer skirt was styled with a crisp turtleneck which looked like it was made of paper, nightie oversized dresses came with Prada logos that were transformed to be worn outside. The buttoned bodysuits with boxy tailored coats gave the impression of belonging to a different time, perhaps a new corporate uniform for the future. Simple short dresses in grey tones felt as if the fabrics were hastily tucked in the front, to hold it together. The slits of the dresses were torn like paper, revealing hidden layers beneath the 2 dimensional silhouettes.

A bit sinister, a bit mysterious, the aura of the collection carried elements of brutalism, but the frigidness of the aesthetic was broken down with bold colours imitating a Rothko painting, feminine flower brooches, ribbons, floral prints and most importantly… the deliberate imperfections.

The conscious decision to add work-in-progress touches to the restrained collection, imitated traces of living. Though the garments portrayed simplicity, there were many design ideas that glimpsed at the viewers in the form of details. A true depiction of less is more.


Aybuke Barkcin

Aybüke Barkçin is an art director, photographer, curator and writer that looks at fashion through the lens of political and societal dynamics. She completed her master's Creative Direction in POLIMODA, Italy and has a background in International Relations and Graphic Design. Her work can be found in her website: https://www.aybukebarkcin.com/