Homme Plisse ISSEY MIYAKE – Flowers and Vases – strength and fragility – subtle and strong – the lightness of being…

Dear Shaded Viewers,

What a beautiful way to start the day, strength and beauty, harmony and trust, lightness and warmth, bravo. ISSEY MIYAKE never lets you down and certainly the strong men performers and acrobats were a wonder to watch. The inspiration came from flowers and vases featuring curved or straight pleats.

The show was directed by Rachid Ourmadane, director of the Théâtre National de Chaillot with both models and performers and members of the acrobatic collective Compagnie XY.

Groups were divided: Vase – this series was inspired by the shape of the opening of a vase and its delicate curves. The top and coat can be folded into a flat, rounded shape.

Monthly Color March – light jackets with rounded silhouette inspired by the image of plants undulating delicately in the open air, reminded me a bit of last season’s peas in a pod.

Flip: Pockets, which can be turned inside out and attached to the garment with snaps, were inspired by the way a bud develops into a flower.

Acclimation Coat – The coat can be transformed to suit your mood, pulled in at the waist with a drawstring , unzip the hood and you have a sailor collar.

Cotton Bolls – a printed series inspired by the cotton plant available in white, yellow and purple

Stem: inspired by the knot of a plant, where the leaf is attached to a stem. Trousers have diagonal pleats echoing the knots from where the pleating starts. I you detach the buttons from the hem the trousers open up like a blossoming plant.

Tuxedo Pleats – refined evening wear in dark grey or black pleated fabric.

Shoes – The men’s pleated ISSEY MIYAKE and WAKOUWA shoe project presents a low-cut model in pink and beige this season. The dark coloured rubber covering the toe cap of the shoe creates a contrast with the pastel colours.



Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.