Emerging Designer Masayuki Ino/Doublet by Aybuke Barkcin


Dear Shaded Viewers,

Doublet, the genderless Japanese streetwear brand was established 8 years ago by Masayuki Ino who designed a new language for clothes with the message daily wear with a feel of disorder.

The name Doublet comes from Lewis Carroll’s world renowned book “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” where the word doublet takes the alternate name for the word puzzle.

Though Doublet is well renowned in Japan, it is still considered underground outside of Asia. But the brand has gained momentum over the years from hosting pop-ups in department stores Dover Street Market, Barneys, 10 Corso Como to being worn by celebrities such as Kendall Jenner and Travis Scott and finally receiving international recognition as the creative director Masayuki Ino won the 2018 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, becoming the first Japanese/Asian designer to win the award.

“I try to keep a sense of humour all the time. Looking at clothes differently—though even in a simple way—is the key to express more fun. Humour and individuality represent the people itself. These are the most important things to create something. Designing for Doublet for me has always been a way to be more human. This is my individuality.”

Perhaps, we should all try to loosen up a bit and not take fashion so seriously, but instead try to see the humour in the clothes we wear.

The foundation of the brand lies in taking basic streetwear items and re-interpreting them with references from Japanese pop-culture, creating re-inventions of t-shirts, hoodies, sweaters, sneakers which are humorous, gender-neutral and transformable. These clothes are not for blending in but for standing out.

With each collection, the brand creates a new approach to the shopping experience. For Doublet, a simple t-shirt is transformed into new experiences… It is compressed and packaged in an instant noodle cup only to be soaked in water to reveal its normal shape. It is cut like a kimono and printed with the most recognisable touristic monuments; Great Sphinx of Giza or the Statue of Liberty featuring the writing “YOUR FACE HERE”, only to have the face placed into the neck hole, to create the illusion of a photo-stand in. It features a blank polaroid photo that reveals a surprisingly horrid image when a smartphone flash is used on it. It is a deadstock package which can be transformed into a wearable shirt.

For Masayuki Ino, the simplest garments present an endless well of inspiration.

“I want customers to enjoy not only the buying experience, but to continue having fun after shopping. That’s why the packaging is important.”

Masayuki Ino reveals that the inspirations for Doublet comes from his childhood memories and the insanity of Japanese TV Comedy. His biggest influencers include; writer Lewis Carroll, surrealists Salvador Dali, Marcel Duchamp, Andy Warhol and Japanese comedian Hitoshi Matsumoto.

Don’t try to find hidden messages in the designs, but only enjoy it with hopes that it puts a smile on your face. Nothing basic and maybe absurd for some, but perhaps during a pandemic that doesn’t seem to be slowing down, humour is exactly what we need.

You can see more of Doublet’s work on their website: https://doublet-jp.com/

Aybuke Barkcin

Aybüke Barkçin is an art director, photographer, curator and writer that looks at fashion through the lens of political and societal dynamics. She completed her master's Creative Direction in POLIMODA, Italy and has a background in International Relations and Graphic Design. Her work can be found in her website: https://www.aybukebarkcin.com/