Andrew Coimbra – ModaLisboa Fall/Winter 2020 – Photos by Ugo Camera

Dear Shaded Viewers,

A designer of Irish and Portuguese descent, Andrew Coimbra delivered a strong and confident show focusing on sharp tailoring and sleek lines, as well as revamped proportions. The jacket is one of his favorite garments to interpret, and he offered forward-thinking versions for men this season: a slightly shrunken, double-breasted style with soft shoulders that had a Napoleonic feel, and a sportier, single-breasted one with a fitted drawstring waist and narrow lapels. Pants were either cropped or loose, and Coimbra’s reworking of outerwear classics was convincing, such as a roomy trench coat with contrasting fabric detail, worn over a crisp white shirt. He also showed streamlined looks on women, which were minimal and elegant. Embellishment overload, slogan t-shirts and “look at me” clothes have been part of our visual landscape for seasons now, but it seems that fashion is currently rediscovering the power of subtlety and more mature styles, moving away from gimmicky sportswear. Coimbra definitely belongs to those who believe in adult dressing, but his garments had interesting details and twists, preventing them from the mundane.



Philippe Pourhashemi

A freelance fashion writer, consultant and stylist, Philippe Pourhashemi was born in Tehran in 1976. He grew up in Paris, before moving to Scotland to study Foreign Languages. His passions are fashion and culture, as well as music and film. He writes and styles features for Metal in Barcelona, Behind the Blinds in Brussels, Contributor in Stockholm, Veoir in New York and SKP in Beijing. He was named Fucking Young's Editor-at-Large in 2016 and has contributed to ASVOF since 2008, acting as Correspondent-at-Large since 2012. An avid traveler, he likes to explore exotic fashion weeks and unexpected destinations whenever he can.