Dear Shaded Viewers,
Haider Ackermann was in top form today, showing a powerful and cohesive collection, which seamlessly combined his menswear with his womenswear. The starting point was tailoring, which -in the designer’s hands- became an elegant and timeless statement that was flattering for both genders. It was, in fact, difficult to distinguish the men from the women sometimes, but it wouldn’t be fair to call the collection ‘androgynous’ either. Graphic prints and vibrant tones -such as greens and yellows- added charm and sensuality to the sharpest shapes, while botanical motifs seemed to reference faraway travels. Pants were either slouchy or narrow, combined with single or double-breasted blazers that were instantly desirable. Laser-cut detailing could be spotted on some of the jackets, as well as a full pleated skirt worn with a sleeveless top. It was nice to see Ackermann simplify his silhouette and strip it down to its essential form, focusing on pure lines and minimal styling. Walking confidently in their pointy leather boots, his models exuded strength and confidence, making this show beautiful and compelling.
Best,
Philippe
