Dear Shaded Viewers,

Haider Ackermann seemed in a restrained and somewhat darker mood with his collection yesterday, focusing on severely tailored shapes and contrasting textures. Alek Wek opened the show wearing a fitted masculine coat and matching pants, while black dominated the lineup. Jackets often had pronounced shoulders, but they were nipped at the waist to convey sensuality. Ackermann reinterpreted a few menswear staples, such as the classic peacoat or military inspired styles. Strict lines were softened by the recurring use of mongolian lamb, adding a touch of fluffiness and drama to several looks. A black and white blouse was ingenuously draped at the front to reveal skin, while long leather gloves had a vampish feel. When a white mongolian lamb blouson appeared on the runway -worn with a simple pair of black pants- one immediately thought of Claude Montana’s years at Lanvin, which expressed an ongoing tension between sharpness and opulence.



Philippe Pourhashemi

A freelance fashion writer, consultant and stylist, Philippe Pourhashemi was born in Tehran in 1976. He grew up in Paris, before moving to Scotland to study Foreign Languages. His passions are fashion and culture, as well as music and film. He writes and styles features for Metal in Barcelona, Behind the Blinds in Brussels, Contributor in Stockholm, Veoir in New York and SKP in Beijing. He was named Fucking Young's Editor-at-Large in 2016 and has contributed to ASVOF since 2008, acting as Correspondent-at-Large since 2012. An avid traveler, he likes to explore exotic fashion weeks and unexpected destinations whenever he can.