Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
Lots of brands like to flatter themselves with counterculture birthrights, but it’s arguably in the long run that true dedication pays off in status. Nearing a decade in business, Nasir Mazhar has gradually polished his line and cultivated his niche, gaining in respect what he got rid of in shock value. When you sit at one of his shows you know what to expect, and if your expectations are high, they’re always unfailingly met. There’s a growing ease in his work too: so seamlessly do the scenes – Britain's Garage, Grime, or Dancehall scenes – seep into the clothes, that they’re both seasonally sensitive to local ripples yet remain consistent at the core, familiar and true to their crowd. Foil nylon tracksuits, exposed underwear branding and steel-toe boots are some of these recurring trusted themes, that for SS17 come back in red, blue, and military green combinations once more after a couple of all-dark seasons. Current underground trends like the bucket hat, or buzz cut hairstyle for boys and girls both are effortlessly absorbed, and the crotchet-on-muscles intuition, that you would believe incongruous up until the moment you see it, features here like it did at Sibling, and probably will do again in shows to come. Intimidatingly sweet and easily one of my favourite girl-looks of this menswear season, is a lace crop-top on shiny bra and matching shorts with drawstrings and cutouts on tights, worn with heavy-duty footwear, sport socks, a septum piercing and shaved head. Another introduction are tracksuit bell-bottoms for women, also with cutouts, paired with halter tops and floor-sweeping furs, considerately sleeveless so you can actually wear them in spring.