Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
Let’s take a moment to be grateful for Sibling. Sid and Cozette presented their SS17 collection on the wettest afternoon of LC:M: by the time we swished to our seats little pools were forming underneath the benches, and the “Wish you were here…” postcards from Miami that we had received as invites – reading “Greetings from The Land of Sunshine” – were all coiled up in protest. But nothing could have dampened our mood once the show begun. A first-time combined men’s and women’s show, with which Sibling officially take their leave from the London Fashion Week calendar to stick with LC:M from now on, it was about as far from genderless as it gets while still featuring several very similar pieces worn by boys and girls both. Set on the California poolside scene, where the real world’s runways are supposed to be, the season revolves around new must-haves in knitted beachwear. From very brief briefs, glazed in sequins for never-ending out-of-the-water shine, to a naughtier version of a 1910-ish striped men’s bathing suit – think of what Tadzio was wearing in Visconti’s Death in Venice, but with a V-neck dipping down past the navel. There are towels hand knitted in Italian yarns, their colours pale with sun and chlorine, and more vivid motifs as well, like palm trees “as seen from the bottom of a swimming pool” and doodled leaves turned into tufted appliques. Doily-like crocheted knickers, with patterns modelled upon Sibling’s signature leopard graphic, are one of those cross-gender items: and if this surprises you, stiff sequined corsets are, too. It’s the second time this season that we see men in corsets, and whereas it may be early to call it a trend, I for one could get used to it.