Above: 2 views of Ex Dogana
Dear Shaded Viewers,
I’m here in Rome for the (thankfully warm and rain-free) winter edition of AltaRoma where the mission this season is a renewed commitment to young creative talent. This is underscored by the choice of the raw, repurposed venue, the Ex Dogana Customs Railway station in the neighborhood of San Lorenzo.
Founded in 1925 under the supervision of architect Angiolo Mazzoni, the Customs Railway took the role of inspecting goods by rail and is now surveyed in the Charter of Quality of Cultural Heritage. Since late last summer, after years of neglect, the site was given new life, without a massive renovation as a venue for art, music and film.
We gathered there on Friday for a number of events, including the catwalks of L72 and Miao Ran.
L72 designer Lee Wood—inspired by the Finnish goddess of water, Vellamo—turned up the volumes with waterproof fabrics, such as laminate cotton jersey and cashmere. The mostly somber and icy color palette was warmed up by generous dollops of safety orange.
Miao Ran went to great lengths with laminated denim, waves of wool, outsize knitwear and interesting prints (I like the purple ensemble with dots).
Diane and I outside the official AltaRoma hotel, The Rome Times, on our way to the shows. I had finally read Elsa Schiaparelli’s memoir A Shocking Life recently so I paid homage with my new Uniqlo cashmere sweater.