Dear Shaded Viewers and Diane,
In the spirit of full disclosure, it's fair to say: had the press release penned by David Hellqvist for Matthew Miller's show yesterday ventured that I should wear my socks inside out I wouldn't have hesitated to question its motives. This, plus the soft spot that in latest seasons I seem to have grown for the sensibilities at play in Miller's work, whose wavelength I like to imagine close to my own, and I walked into the venue at Victoria House with insistently high expectations – a perilous mindset, perhaps, and yet one in which I was not disappointed in the least. A militant collection, like his tend to be: but the destructive stride of Miller's tailoring reaches in AW15 RESISTANT less societal and more intimate, almost romantic politics. A generational melancholy of sorts infuses the season, as the designers looks at the crushed ambitious of our age, and “everything we were supposed to be”. Shreds of our shelter, metaphorical and not, the fabrics were borrowed from the world of upholstery and interior design: soft speckled wools and canvases were distressed and torn, then stitched back together with exposed fringes and seams. The confrontational uniform of the lady in red up above remains as yet one of my favourite looks this season.