Dear Shaded Viewers,
Languorous and strict at the same time, Dries Van Noten's last collection was bold, powerful and sensual, inspired by the work of Belgian choreographer Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker. If elements from the dance world kept popping up during the show -such as leotards, suspenders or reworked ballet flats- a darker undercurrent defined the overall silhouette, referencing the logics of bondage and obsessive fetishism. From what looked like elastic harnesses to a significant amount of flesh on display -an unusual occurrence within Van Noten's world- a perverse sense of eroticism and playfulness permeated the show, giving it a decadent and luxurious feel. Fluidity was the buzzword, from floaty silk coats to billowy pants, as well as softer textures. Flesh tones evoked a longing for skin and intimacy, underlining the designer's willingness to expose a more vulnerable and sensitive side.