First 24 Hours in Copenhagen for CFW | Kristopher Arden-Houser

Dear Diane and Shaded Viewers, 

Just off of a plane from Stockholm, Wednesday night, I dashed over to Henrik Vibskov's Shrink Wrap Spectacular on the back lot of the Carlsberg factory site in central Copenhagen. As always, Mr. Vibskov did not disappoint, installing a series of drums that when the model walks down the teeter-totter like catwalk the post hits the drums. 

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The designer who debuts his collection in Paris during men's week gave us our first look at his womenswear. Keeping a surprisingly neutral palette, for fall, he then livens things up with his famous colored prints, zippers and a stand-out built-in nomadic backpack /jacket. In a world were everyone wants to be the same, to meet a bottom-line, it is the creative people like Henrik who makes me love what I do.  

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After a quick stint at the Acne store opening and party, where the MC got completely naked during his performance, I called it a night only to pick right back up the next morning for the TEKO graduate show. Considering the amount of academic juries I sit on, I NEVER miss a school presentation. This year, ten students presented 3-6 pieces. For me the two stand-outs were Trine Engelbretsen and Eva-Maria Suviste: Engelbretsen beautiful strips of leather highlighting the female form was advanced and did not feel heavy & for Suvite she shows early promise for cut and prints.   

(forgive these pictures, it was early and my settings were off)

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Next on the agenda was menswear designer Jean // Phillip – who I have been following for several years. The designer who often works in all shades of black and has a heavy propensity towards the drape infuse a bit (yes just a bit) of ice blue this season. A definate must-have was a black shearling coat with amber shoulder details. 

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Anne Sofie Madsen has quickly become the new name in Danish fashion and it comes as no surprise that the designer worked for Mr. McQueen in London. The designer offered a broad range of looks that span golden sparkle to white tribal activewear all the way to beautifully printed dresses and skirts with laborious fringe work. 

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To close out my first 24 hours in Copenhagen was the Los Angeles / Copenhagen based designer Sara Sachs, who along with a collective of artists, performers and filmmakers make-up Moonspoon Saloon. Despite the fact that it was -15 degrees more than 100 people stood outside to watch a preview of the forthcoming collection that will fully debut during New York Fashion Week. Sachs dressed in one of her multi-colored furs seemed to warm up the venue with her smile (and hot toddies) and nearly every passerby was in awe of this very special moment that MSS created. 

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For full show reviews check out my column on Vogue.IT 

-Kristopher Arden-Houser 

 

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