Behind the scenes with Fred Butler , a visit to Kokon To Zai and Xmas greetings from Anna Jonsson and Scott Connell and their family and a 1994 photo of Paolo Melim Andersson, the new Chief Designer at Chloe

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Fred at work

I met Fred Butler when she was working as an intern with the As Four. Recently I asked her what she was up to.




” These are pictures that my assistant took whilst we were making some set pieces in October. They were for a shoot that will be in the next issue of Super Super. So here are some workshop snapshots of the construction. We built a black & white 3D cartoon world with 8 different scenarios. Here you can see half a car and some trees hanging to dry! The creative director was K A B I R and the photographer was Ram Shergill. I would like to say many many thanks to my helpers Helen, Ally, Lou and Kim”

The other picture of a rocket on my hand is the christmas card for Show Studio. My contribution will be aired on New Year’s Eve as part of the Swarovski 12 days of christmas project.


I include a few xmas photos. Here is a present given to Richard Nahem from his boyfriend of 30 years, the artist Vincent Gagliostro.
It’s an image of baby Richard. I spent a lovely Christmas dinner with them eating salmon that there friends from Denmark had flown in for the occasion. Made me think of Henrik so of course I asked them if they knew the Prince of Denmark and as a matter of fact I was told by one of the guests that he owned several pieces of Henrik Vibskov’s clothes. If you want to see more of Vincent’s work, Google my site. If you are looking for a talented and good looking dentist in Paris, google Richard’s site.

Today I passed by Kokon To Zai to pick up my lovely present of a Marjan Pejoski black rosary made, of course, with little black skulls. It was from Sasha and Marjan Pejoski. They are most likely enjoying their holidays in warm and tropical Bali.I am ready for my trip to Mexico City for Day of the Dead. I think that is about a year from now so maybe by then EGR will have sorted out Robb’s and my trip.

Inside Kokon To Zai , don’t you love the mannequins? It’s like George Segal sculptures. The Shopper.

I spent Christmas day with friends having home made scones and tea and then we caught part of the mini mass at Notre Dame.


Every year I receive a photo greeting from Anna Jonsson Connell showing all the members of her immediate family. Anna modeled for me when I was designing in New York. Her cards are a document of how quickly time passes. 16 years ago she was modelling for my last show in NYC. After the show she confessed that she was 2 months pregnant. Her first son was Ian, this holiday photo was taken on his 16th birthday. He is now 6’4 and I have been living in Paris for the past 16 years.


Anna asked me to design her wedding dress, in fact I think that is how we met. Later she became a favorite model of mine.

THis is turning a bit into a Swedish post with Anna and now Paolo.

While I was looking for Anna and Scott’s wedding photo I came across a photo I took of Paolo Melim Andersson in l994. Paolo is the new chief designer of Chloe, previously he was the design director of Marni.

Paolo Melim Andersson in l994

I remember when I met Paolo, he was studying French at the Sorbonne with a friend of mine. He had never studied fashion before and he wanted to show me his sketches to see if I thought that he had any talent. We met for tea. I encouraged him to continue. Around that time I was the fashion editor for Joyce, HK. I had asked Paolo if there was a designer that he thought that he’d like to work with, he mentioned John Galliano. I had some samples from a Joyce photo shoot that had to be returned to Galliano’s studio so I thought that if Paolo wanted to get inside the studio and try to show his book at the same time…he could play the messenger. Later Paolo enrolled at Central Saint Martins, he interned at Maison Martin Margiela while at CSM and I was always happy to see him in his white lab coat when I went there. He always wore very pointy cowboy boots. I vaguely remember a red pair with a great heel. the rest is history.Here is a little funny story that you won’t find anywhere else, when Paolo was a child he kissed his turtle on the mouth and the turtle ripped off his bottom lip. He has a tiny little scar, you can hardly see it. I’ll always remember that story when I think of him. He is very sweet and supremely talented. I am happy that I played a tiny part in encouraging his career. I think that it is fitting that now that we are having a Scadanavian wave in fashion that a Swedish designer should be at the helm of Chloe. Of course I wish all good things to Yvan Mispelaire at Gucci. Paolo’s first collection for Chloe will be in March.



I also received this DP button from a very pregnant Frederique Daubal.

Diane Pernet

A LEGENDARY FIGURE IN FASHION and a pioneer of blogging, Diane is a respected journalist, critic, curator and talent-hunter based in Paris. During her prolific career, she designed her own successful brand in New York, costume designer, photographer, and filmmaker.