Dear Shaded Viewers,
For its 25th anniversary, Okada Paris presented its SS27 collection ‘François I – The Mononoké Spirit’, giving us a glimpse into the French Renaissance and Japan’s Heian and Muromachi periods. From the overindulgent display of royal power and Renaissance wealth to the wearable sculpture of the traditional, multi-layered jūnihitoe donned by Japanese noblewomen, Ken Okada created a modern fantasy drawing on the histories of Japan and France. Housed in a private mansion dating from the late Louis XVI era, the presentation began with an ascent up a grand staircase into four interconnected rooms.
I first saw a youth striding confidently across the room, inflated by his structured white garments. They extended horizontally rather than vertically, giving the illusion of wide shoulders and a more arrogant chest. It was hard to distinguish his undergarments from his outer layers, as the creases and lines blended into one another. The sleeves ended just below the elbows, and the trousers just above the knees, perhaps slightly awkward and funny to the modern eye.
I next saw a young lady poised by a window, looking out into the distance. Her collars stood upright, and buttons cascaded diagonally down her shirt towards two semicircular cut-outs, one on either side. Paired with a freely moving black skirt, this was the Mononoke spirit I recognised. Princess Mononoke, the human daughter of wolves and a creation by Hayao Miyazaki, has long been a heroine many girls and I aspire to be.
At the bottom of the staircase, I encountered a wealthy woman of status. Her many layers fanned out across her upper body, rising towards a lofty, pointed collar that stopped perfectly beneath her jaw. Her hands were fully concealed and tucked into the pockets of her comically voluminous, trumpet-like pants. A thin black belt cinched the waist and held the ensemble together.
I stepped outside of this world and was immediately greeted by the soft glare of the sun and the distant chatter of traffic in present-day Paris. I quickly took out my phone and opened Google Maps.
Later,
Estelle
